Don Wedor
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well heck I didnt know I just had to spend a few more bucks for the color to match…….DOH!
well that is a myth, No such option.
Thats why we blend most of the time, we can get close but for dead nut exact match its never going to happen.
and that piece goes under the tail above the rear tire Right? one trip down the road you will never know the dif
I have used the StartingLine Guns Before they are Good I like their Spot repair Gun the most. but i see its not in the kit you have listed
But ya stick with a name brand paint gun : Sharpe , Sata , Iwata , Binks , Devilbiss
you will have to read up on what makes a gun good Would take days to type that out. All guns have a purpose. like a SATA 100RP Is a Primer Gun , SATA 3000HVLP Is a Base Gun, SATA3000RP Is a Clearcoat Gun
And Yes you could use them for any thing you want, They dont have to be used just as I wrote but they are all designed for a reason.
I have never used the Vapor Gun you mentioned
it maybe just me but it looks like the basecoat was put on either a bit to dry or not reduced enough as it looks like it has a texture to it. maybe it was not atomized enough, but you will get better and a paint job aint complete unless theres a run in it lol
no one ever says you have to leave the run in it tho.
Great job and keep it up.
aircraft stripper is a pain in most cases. I would do as you said and DA the car down. I see you have a bit of surface rust to contend with also , As for the paint to use if its going to be a driver and a solid color easiest thing to do would be to use a single stage. find out what your local Paint store deals with for paint , since you have some DP90 I would guess it a PPG jobber close by maybe you could ask them about some PPG Concept paint this is there single stage line good stuff.
here is a link for the Concept Line (it the Tech sheet for it)
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileID=0e8760ec-b10c-458a-8369-1d6aac087000Just use a DA Featheredge around your repair that you were working on sand the entire panel with 240 – 320
Spray on some sealer (Gray) sand the sealer smooth 400-600grit. At this point you should be able to see any imperfections left, If there are some sand scratches left you can either try to sand them out trying not to go through the sealer or use a glaze (Very fine Putty) I happen to use Evercoat products like metal Glaze 416 but others may have a better suggestion. You can apply a thin coat of this the sand it down till you have fixed all the problem areas you can then spray another coat of sealer or your First Coat of primer (Some primers can be mixed as a sealer depending on what products you are using.and spray your color spray 2-3 coats of Base and let it dry this way you can wet sand it smooth for your final coats of Base then do 2 more coats of base wait the time the tech sheet says and clear the tailgate.
let us Know what brand and specific products you are using and we will have a better Idea of what steps to take in case your using single stage paint.
also if you are doing it in a garage I know you would think its easier to paint it lying flat but If you can Stand it up just like it sits on the truck, This will help Bring Down your dust problems . take all the emblems off and remove the handle
and use as many lights as you can this will help you see any flaws and help you while spraying making sure you have good film build Make sure you have good overlap and a wet edge nothing worse than Dry edged and dry rough stripes in you paint.
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