zarbat007
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I also hear lots of raves about Autowave. Not sure what to use when I no longer can get solvent paints: Glasurit 90 line or Autowave. (I’m a hobbyist)
Hopefully its user friendly and works just fine in no-booth conditions. :unsure:
Can I spray Nason clears over Autowave? How does it sand in case you get mettalics mottling or dust nibs?
[b]Jinx wrote:[/b]
[quote]with the lph400 do you guys think the result are better if the air pressure is hi or low for spraying clear? I dont mind taking a while to lay it out if it works better with low pressure.[/quote]Results are better with higher pressure since it atomizes better and you can spray faster.
25 psi is the average I’d use with LPH-400 depending on clear.You can spray almost any epoxy primer with your Iwata. Epoxy primers ame the same viscosity as basecoat and they can be spayed with 1.4.
But a filler primer (2K primer) will need a 1.8 tip. Buy a cheap gun for primer. I’d never shoot primer in my Iwata.
I used Astro 4014 for epoxy and a cheap devilbiss for 2k primer.W-400 is like Sata RP. Better gun for clear, faster and atomizes better.
LPH-400 is like Sata HVLP, less overspray, better for basecoat but has no problems shooting clear like glass if you increase the pressure. You really can’t go wrong with it.
I have the LPH400 gun with silver and orange caps.
Silver cap: Awesome for clear, not so good for metallic basecoats.
Orange cap: Decent for mettalics, but once I used Sata HVLP, Sata is definitely better for basecoat.
You can definitely spray nice and even metallics with orange cap (18 psi), but its much easier with Sata. I sprayed BMW 309 arctic silver first time with orange cap and it came out great.I love this gun, the only thing I dislike about it is the spreed. Even after bumping the pressure to 25psi its still slow with lots of overspray (you defeat the HVLP purpose by increasing pressure).
I use the Sata RP for large panels like a hood or doors, but I’d use the Iwata for smaller panels like a bumper. The W400 is better suited for faster speed.Here is a picture of a bumper I did long time ago, after practicing on 2 test panels with Iwata to get the hang of it. Straight out of the gun, no wet-sanding/buffing. Great all-around gun for someone who likes to spray soft and slow.
[URL=http://img251.imageshack.us/i/92436065.jpg/][IMG]http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/5969/92436065.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://img131.imageshack.us/i/77822504.jpg/][IMG]http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/5263/77822504.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://img638.imageshack.us/i/65300026.jpg/][IMG]http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/2820/65300026.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Thanks for reply.
I am going to use Dupont epoxy primer over the R-M adhesion promoter.
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/H-19356_25X0S.pdf
:blush: I better not have compatibility issues :whistle: 👿
Thanks for reply everyone.
I used SEM before and I clrealy remember it asking to sand with 400 grit before spraying adhesion promoter.
So for this RM promoter I will: clean the bumper with hot water and SEM soap
clean with plastic prep surface cleaner
spray adhesion promoter, wait 30 mins and
spray epoxy primer.Thanks again. :rock
Thats $130 Canadian. 😛
I could probably get it for $100 too but I got the Nason 465 instead.Satas are great guns, if you are a hobbyist you wont need the rebuild kit for a long time.
Look at Devilbiss GFG-670 plus gun. Comes with 3 tips (1.2/1.3/1.4), its a compliant gun, excellent for clear. Nice gun for BC too!
Do a bit search on this gun, everyone loves it. Parts are cheap too!
I was planning to get this first, but got a good deal on Sata RP so I got the Sata.I have the Iwata with both silver and orange caps. The orange cap is nice for basecoats, but the silver cap sucks at spraying mettalics!
Great job Han!
Did you use the SPI clear? If so, which one?
Napa stores in Canada that carry paint and bodyshop supply
are called CMAX, and the local CMAX carries only Dupont stuff.
I’m curious to see where Canuck found that clear.I’m also in Canada, where do you get those clears?
I looked everywhere before I decided to get Nason clear.
Wow
Nice Job Han,looks like great product. Does it bead water and
last for at least 2 months?
I love 303 protectant for interior/engine bay. I’d like to give these
HD stuff a try, but I’ve never heard of them. Autogeek doesn’t
carry them.So, where to get some? :woohoo:
[b]airhead wrote:[/b]
[quote]thanks wat materials would you suggest me to use on repairing a cracked dash boardthe material has like a leather texture to it[/quote]
Check out SEM website. They have lots of stuff for plastic/leather repairs.
Email them if you have any questions, their technical support is great.http://semproducts.com/images/Users/1/training-pdfs/RAP-1_1009.pdf
Great video Jimmo.
Just wondering, how much does a gallon kit of polyuroxy stuff cost you?
I picked up a gallon kit of 465 today. :cheer:
They only had the Chromapremier reducer in gallon, and it was quite pricey, so I just went with the Nason reducer.
:whistle: