Looking to paint over my original paint.
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[quote=”bondomerchant” post=23978]an the plot thickens :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]
Yes, it’s suddenly become a whole different ball game to a simple scuff & shoot :huh:
It’s a fender.. Not a big problem. When did everyone become so soft.. All I’m asking is what to do to when I want to paint the truck. I like to do the work myself.. Not sure about anyone else.
No one is soft. You asked about painting over original paint that was in good condition. Turns out you need to weld in patch panels, do body work then paint.
It’s a little more than a scuff and shoot. The steps are diff. Every thing you do from fitting the parts, welding them all the way to the paint will affect your outcome
if you want to know just the proper steps to paint it then thats fine but dont blame us if you dont do the other steps properly and the repaired areas look like ass.As far as prepping a good surface. wet sand it with 600 grit. grey scuff pad the nooks and crannies and you are good to go 😉
I mention a fender patch and it seems like everyone gets nervous. Not going to blame someone online if the paint comes out bad..Welled I actually bought a Haynes tech book. You use 320 grit.
320 grit for final prep. Good luck with that :whistle:
Thanks I will
[quote=”Eric23″ post=24003]It’s a fender.. Not a big problem. When did everyone become so soft.. All I’m asking is what to do to when I want to paint the truck. I like to do the work myself.. Not sure about anyone else.[/quote]
I’d imagine most people here by now would prefer to have someone else do the work! :chair
The difference between fender patches to a simply scuff and paint is huge. The question started off as what to sand paint in good condition with, then a by the way I’m welding in patches…its just a completely different ballgame, the final sand will be the absolute simplest part of this job and unless your applying a wet on wet primer for some reason 320 isn’t gonna cut it, your paint will just look like a bunch of scratches. I doubt anyone has the time to write up a step by step for this job, the basic flow is going to be.
Cut Away Rust -> Fit and Weld in Patches -> Grind the Welds & Make Straight with Body Filler -> Prime that area -> Sand your Primer -> Final Sand Paint & Blend Area’s
If your wanting more information on something specific I’d suggest creating a new thread with a more specific title such as how to weld in patches, this thread is just all over the place. Like i mentioned earlier you should take some time and learn the basics first. I’ve got around 100 video’s on youtube that can probably give you an idea on how to get from body filler to painting. Good luck.
http://www.youtube.com/jimmo4life
Lots of talent on this forum, I’d listen up if I was you. As Jimmo mentioned, he has some excellent videos to watch to give you an idea how to get started. If you want to ignore it all and use the Haynes manual…go for it.
[quote=”ding” post=24006]320 grit for final prep. Good luck with that :whistle:[/quote]
if u seal over it tell me whats wrong with it?? :wak :wak[quote=”bondomerchant” post=24013][quote=”ding” post=24006]320 grit for final prep. Good luck with that :whistle:[/quote]
if u seal over it tell me whats wrong with it?? :wak :wak[/quote]
😡 😡 😡 It’s a little coarse,400 is the minimum I would go if I was sealing ,maybe “pro”base has built in scratch filling properties,or are you using rock guard as a sealer? :rofl :rofl :rofl
It also depends if you are finishing by hand or machine,dry vs wet. :roflive done both 320 an 400 an never had a problem as long as i did a proper job sealing it 😉 if ya put a coat of sealer on an still see sand scratches then ya need another coat :teach of sealer :chair :chair :chair :chair back in the day we used ta do em with 220 an use synthol enamel sealers b4 topcoating an never had any issues either course some folks could break a crowbar in a sand box 2 😛 😛 :rofl
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=24016]ive done both 320 an 400 an never had a problem as long as i did a proper job sealing it 😉 if ya put a coat of sealer on an still see sand scratches then ya need another coat :teach of sealer :chair :chair :chair :chair back in the day we used ta do em with 220 an use synthol enamel sealers b4 topcoating an never had any issues either course some folks could break a crowbar in a sand box 2 😛 😛 :rofl[/quote]
OK ODG :wakWhats with bodymen thinking 2 coats of sealer is going to fix sand scratches,its cheaper and faster to finish in 400 :wak :wak I will take pictures of some hooks we made out of rebar(with all the grooves) that we use to hang parts when we spray them inside and out.There are thousands of coats of sealer and paint on them and the grooves are still there.You must be joking in comparing alkyd enamel and shitty prep to todays products,and you said I use a low tech system :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :deadhorse :deadhorse
At work we stop at p320 dry for anything that’s getting sealed. Seems a little coarse to me too but the jobs turn out fine. :unsure:
320 dry on a fine orbit da might work. but more often than not in a few months you will see those sand scratches. may look good going out the door but it wont stay that way. and just cause the owner doesnt see them, doesnt mean they’re not there.
and obviously if this guy knew how to make 320 work he wouldnt be here asking what to prep with :whistle: not like he got his start filling roof skins with 5gl pails of bondo :rofl :rofl
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