Looking to paint over my original paint.
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[quote=”Eric23″ post=24005]I mention a fender patch and it seems like everyone gets nervous. Not going to blame someone online if the paint comes out bad..Welled I actually bought a Haynes tech book. You use 320 grit.[/quote]
What type of paint are you using? 320 isnt gonna cut it (no pun intended) :p for base/clear. It will for enamal though, maybe thats what the book is telling you.
400 is the lowest i go for sealer, i dont think 320 actually seales the scratches.
If your welding in patch panels your in for alot of work to turn it out right. if your not perticular go for it, if you are i would suggest to replace the panel it might be a little more cost up front but you end up with a better job in the end. Some of the aftermarket companys actually make them fairly cheap.I have put in patch panels before but i will never do it again due to the amount of work involved to do them right.
Are you painting the whole truck? if so sand the whole thing down with 400 grit on a DA sander. if not just sand the areas your going to paint with 400, do the rest with 800 and blend off your paint and re clearcoat. Good luck your gonna need it :weights
[quote=”ding” post=24021]320 dry on a fine orbit da might work. but more often than not in a few months you will see those sand scratches. may look good going out the door but it wont stay that way. and just cause the owner doesnt see them, doesnt mean they’re not there.
and obviously if this guy knew how to make 320 work he wouldnt be here asking what to prep with :whistle: not like he got his start filling roof skins with 5gl pails of bondo :rofl :rofl[/quote]Well for what it’s worth, on stuff I paint at the house I finish with 500-600 whether I’m sealing or not because I feel better prepping my stuff a little further out.
I will note however that we have a deer hit black cobalt in the shop at this moment that I did a quarter repair on a year ago and there’s no sand scratches showing on that year old repair that was finished to 320 and sealed. Seen plenty of others that look fine later on as well.
Dry sanded with an interface pad on an orbital seems to work with the products we use at the shop.
Only time I’ve seen ’em is when our prepper is lazy and doesn’t go over the bodyguys work with the orbital, then the straight hand blocked 320 scratches are vaguely noticeable later on.
for crying out loud ya goobers were talkin a complete here???/ :blink: repair it seal the bitch base it an clear it an ya theres finer grits if it make ya feel good go 400 grit but ive never had 320 bite me unless i wasnt sealing jeez :wak :wak :wak
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=24026]for crying out loud ya goobers were talkin a complete here???/ :blink: repair it seal the bitch base it an clear it an ya theres finer grits if it make ya feel good go 400 grit but ive never had 320 bite me unless i wasnt sealing jeez :wak :wak :wak[/quote]
then when your done sand it with 1200 and buff with superduty on a black foam pad. then slather the bitch with some zymol :wak :wak[quote=”ding” post=24033][quote=”bondomerchant” post=24026]for crying out loud ya goobers were talkin a complete here???/ :blink: repair it seal the bitch base it an clear it an ya theres finer grits if it make ya feel good go 400 grit but ive never had 320 bite me unless i wasnt sealing jeez :wak :wak :wak[/quote]
then when your done sand it with 1200 and buff with superduty on a black foam pad. then slather the bitch with some zymol :wak :wak[/quote]Don’t forget, you must be wearing your ‘secret decoder ring’ in order to determine if it’s ready for the zymol. :whistle: :cheers
Way to confuse the new guy…lol
My suggestion is to figure out what products you are using and read the tech sheets. Stick with one product line for everything and go from there.
in the pictures you can see the rear of the cab i had some small holes i filled with my welder i was a dum 16 year old when i first got it and screwed a carpet the the back so i filled the holes and smoothed them out and used fiberglass bondo short hair to fill and smooth it out and i primed the rear and used 320 and wet it and fatherd the primer to the orignal pain and i got perfect match from pep boys (in mass) to do the cab and maybe save the painting til the warmer weather.. but in teh bed pictures i need the lip of the fender well replaced and the fronr passenger just a little but i sandblasted the frame and did the lines all new and replaced the foot brake lines
whoa! no scuff and shoot for that one
[quote=”MoCoke” post=24059]whoa! no scuff and shoot for that one[/quote]
:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl shhhhh benny is grooming him :agreeso paint right over that?
i wouldnt u got the bodywork all done yet??
not yet just the rear fenders to do but i wanted to paint the back of the cab before i put the bed on..
why dont ya finish it an do it in 2 separate peices
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