Joshua Scroggie
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[quote=”arount” post=24582]Well went to pick up the car. The edge near the rear window and trunk lid was not buffed, was still matte. Again, when you sand trash from the base coat you destroy the clearcoat. This really sucks.[/quote]
OK. Some basics. With MODERN Base Coat/Clear Coat systems: after surface has been prepared (bodywork, primer, sanded, scuffed, and cleaned) the base coat is applied (sprayed). Then when base coat has “flashed” (solvents have evaporated and the paint is not wet anymore) clear coat is sprayed over the whole panel. There is an acceptable “film build” within limits (ATX system I use recommends 2-2.5 mils of clear coat).
AFTER the clear has dried any small imperfections could easily be sanded out and polished. And as long as your film build is still within the specified limits the clear coat will look and last like it should.SANDING CANNOT RUIN YOUR CLEAR UNLESS YOU SAND OFF TOO MUCH CLEAR! :stoned
If you don’t Buff it enough (which is Super common) then the clear will be hazie or not shiny. If you sand too much the clear will fail in shorter period of time (due to lack of film build) or you will sand through it which is a majorly nasty looking issue which will be immediately noticeable as a color difference. Rough Edges you said “matte” around the window edge sounds like not enough clear applied (to that area) as you must put just enough clear to be “slick” and wet looking. Too much obviously makes runs and too little will look “crunchy” or “fuzzy” like the clear coat wasn’t applied heavily enough to make it “flow” and look wet.
What type of clear? Unfortunately I’m not familiar with that one… if its urethane there is a good chance a urethane hardener from another manufacturer will work with it. Good Luck! hope to hear how it turns out
woah! I’ve never even dreamed (or would it be a nightmare? lol) of that type of paint work. Awesome pic
Its not so much “taking orders” and I have no problem with that (I’ve taken orders for 15 years haha). And Happy New Years!
:cheers and apropriate foot wear. wet feet can lead to serious discomfort, I Always put on my waterproof boots before wet-sanding or washing a car.
Ohh, the How to’s on this site are awesome, just don’t take Everything at face value (the one thing that stands out in my mind it the instructions lead you through the repair and then say to feather the paint edge. The right way is to feather the edge when prepping your surface for repair)
:nothingtoad
For the repairs- Like Ben Said. BUT First make matting into very small pieces, saturate the matting with resin, Then apply matting to the surface. To reduce dry times just play with the amount of hardener and/or warm your surface using a heatlight.
haha snow running down, thats what I’d call a hard to controll environment
We’ve been considering/trying to open our own shop for about 4 years (and finally succeeded) and had considered going mobile. the dark side? lol. I had thought it sounded like fun. how do you controll your environment? I mean I’ve got a heated insulated booth, a complete mixing system, and a nice air dryer and filters, and still I have occasional issues like dirt, and contamination…
:cheers nice custom touches. particularly the “ford” cutouts on the rear
Thanks! I do like working with my dad, but I may be one of the only :rofl He’s a hard ass and a bit of a perfectionist. He’s been my boss for my whole painting career (since highschool) and I’ve learned exactly His way to do things. Its nice now to be on equal footing without any chain of command in there to deal with.
I’ve used both RPS and the PPS cups, and i like that they are disposable. haha the vent… the only other issue i have is when color matching you’ve got to take the cup off the gun, open it up, add a drop or two, then reassemble. much better than PPS imho because of the vent- the material comes out fast enough haha. but i gotta say that shooting at ANY angle is the shining point of the 3M PPS.
We’ve stopped using RPS now and I use the cups that come with the gun and just clean them… the price seems prohibitive.for sure! message sent lol. something like Martin Senour = Sherwin Williams + NAPA label. lol
:agree
A 1.3 should be a good setup for basecoat, and with High Solids clears it should be fine too although I prefer a little more flow just so it doesn’t take so long (I use a 1.4 for shooting clear, both HS and old school)
But- unfortunately- RyanBrown said it just right, I couldn’t Tell you what to do because of the variables. I’ve painted more cars than I could count and the only way to get close to perfect is to Practice. practice practice practice practice practice practice….. etc. the more you paint the better you will know how to deal with each variable.
And orange peel- there is a fine line between acceptable and too rough. If you are painting a show car the answer is easy- give good flash time, put on one extra coat or clear , then cut and buff it. If you are doing repairs or spot jobs the answer is to get your “orange peel” the same as factory which always has some texture. even Lexus- recently won an award for “best factory finish”- has orange peelwe are also getting 15% on paint. and that seems low to me too.
Martin Senour with formula express online shows list prices, but (and i’m still trying to figure out why) the Sherwin Williams formula express online (looks Exactly like Martin Senours site) does not show list prices…