Andy Taylor
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[quote=”Paintwerks” post=25733]Just a note on the spray suit…[u]wear the damn hood[/u] – even in the video posted above, it shits me when I see painters wear a suit and leave the hood hanging behind their back. They don’t cover their head so crap can fall in the paint. Had a 23 yo “I know it all” painter do a job for me once. I gave him a new suit and he refused to wear the hood probably because it didn’t look cool. Well, guess what….found one of his hairs under the clearcoat in the bumper. Man was I furious. Ripped him a new one on that as we needed to repaint the whole bar. :chair
[/quote]Pretty funny that. I very rarely wear a suit as I just sweat like a pig in them. This week I did two larger than normal jobs so decided to wear one but seemed to get more crap than usual in the jobs, and also had a hair in each – something I’ve never had when not wearing a suit 😆
[quote=”Bladem3″ post=25730]
Hi Andy thanks for your reply , it’s definatly something to think about im on a ridiculous time frame on this it’s unreal and the car has to be revealed at the Monaco Top Marques Show on the 19th of April, I’ve not even got the car yet either :(, just to clarify I take it by ‘Mid coat’ that’s the base coat (ground coat) obviously of which the pearl coat goes over?.[/quote]
That’s a tight schedule!
And I’m sorry mate, I’ve no idea why I said mid coat :unsure: must have had something else on my mind! Yes I meant the ground coat. I don’t know what paint you’re using as it may differ, but on my DeBeer scheme the ground coat is a simple flat white with all the pearl contained in the next coat (what I normally refer to as the mid coat when my brain is working 😆 )
[quote=”Bladem3″ post=25716]hi guys
but beleive it or not ive not painted a 3 stage pearl before as there not to common in the uk.[/quote]
Not too sure I can agree with you there mate. I’m doing more and more of them lately. A right pain in the backside when you’re doing spot repairs or blending panels :lol1
As the others have said, doing a full car is much easier, but you really do want to be doing the whole lot in one hit if it all possible. It’s often a bit more tricky, but the only way to ensure a 100% match panel to panel.
What I have done in the past is to mid coat all of the panels off the car to ensure I get all the hard to reach places, then build it back up and put another mid coat over the whole exterior. Then apply the pearl coat as evenly as you possibly can. It’ll not matter if you don’t get it right into the tricky areas in the door shuts perfectly as no one will ever know the difference, but getting the outside of the car laid down evenly is a must. I’d then strip the panels off and clear everything separately to ensure you get all the nooks and crannys covered well.
It’s a bit more work doing it that way, and many may not agree with it, but it’s worked well for me in the past as I don’t miss any spots with the colour or clear (the advantage of painting panels separately) but get a perfectly even coverage and colour outside (the advantage of painting the car complete)
[quote=”smooth” post=25640]IMO the two that seem to be leading the pack are PPG with the Envirobase/Nexa aquabase and ( i hate to say this) Akzo Nobel with Sikkens Autowave. :blush:[/quote]
I know I keep banging on about it, but I changed from NEXA to DeBeer 900 a couple of years ago, and love it. They’d have to pay me to swap back!
I’m not quite as keen on the clear, but then we went from the top line NEXA clear to an “entry level” DeBeer one to save money, so it’s apples and oranges.
Thanks, but it’s the customer that’s having to be patient on this one. 😆
I’m just doing a bit on it here and there, in between other stuff.
Just a small update.
The epoxy was left for several days, then blocked down with 120 and left for another few days to “breath”. I went back and filled a couple of pinholes with Evercoat Easy Sand, finished with 180 & 240, then shot some high build primer over it.
That was left for a few days to harden up, then Friday I blocked it down with 320 then 600. It’ll get another couple of days to sit, then a final block down with 800 before paint 🙂
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/P1010542Large.jpg[/IMG]
Cheers Tommy :cheers
Always glad to help anyone I can, and thanks for the shout. Now we just need to spread the word and get more people onto the stuff 😆
^^^ I like that. Nice neat solution.
Mine sit like this during the day
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/IMAG0057Large.jpg[/IMG]
Thanks for all the replies
[quote=”InvictaRefinish” post=25484]Another thing if the aluminium has sat around bare for a while and handled a lot I would chuck it in with another job and bake it before Id clean and paint it.[/quote]
Yes, I used to do that back when I was doing a lot of wheels, and clean them immediately before priming.
Waiting to see what my DeBeer guy comes up with on the etch. I’m hoping for another free sample… :whistle:
[quote=”nlafayette” post=25501]Talked to the painter- he said problem mostly occurs when blending into adjacent panel and wet bed needs to be sprayed close to edge of panel. it seems as though the wet bed is changing the shade.[/quote]
If I’m reading you right it might not be the basecoat that’s at fault at all. If he’s talking about the far end of a blend panel being darker than the original, then it’s more likely the build up of the wet bed and extra clear causing the darkening effect. We call it the magnification effect in the UK, not sure about over there 🙂
One way to reduce it is to make sure he only puts one coat of clear right to the edge of the panel, but that can sometimes cause it’s own problems due to having such a thin film thickness.
Oh, and after further reading of various tech sheets (as you do…) both of Debeers etch (wash) primers specifically state not to be overcoated with epoxy primer.
Looks like I’m going back to how I always did it in the past – etch, wet on wet primer/sealer, base, clear 🙂
Always asking the right questions Ben 😉
And there’s the rub – it’s actually an Octoral epoxy that I’ve got (a sister company to DeBeer), but while it lists: “Substrates – metal (steel, zinc, aluminium)”, in another part of the TDS it says “Due to the large variaty of aluminium parts, first contact supplier”
I think I’ll play it safe and ring my tech guy.
RTFM as they say
Thanks again.
Thanks all. I have epoxy to hand, but would have to buy some etch, so that answers that question 😆
Wet on wet would be a good idea if I could talk him into a solid colour, but it’s a downhill mountain bike race frame, and he’s currently looking at a 3 stage lime green pearl :sick:
[img]http://img.thesun.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00523/SNF0404MJ_682_523800a.jpg[/img]
Welcome aboard :welc
Mine live in the comfort of a padded cell 😆
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/P1000566Large.jpg[/IMG]
They hook over the side when in use, and there’s room for my cleaning brushes, spare connectors, different fluid nozzles etc.