Andy Taylor
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I use 1-105 quite a lot.
Make sure you stir it up really well. I go for at least 5 minutes with a fresh tin. All the gelled up stuff in the bottom needs to be completely mixed in. I then mix it 2:1 with 10% reducer.
Sand it as smooth has suggested, then make sure your coats are going on nice and wet and even. The thicker you apply each coat the more satin (less matt) it will eventually dry, as the matting agent sinks within the paint film, increasing the gloss level slightly. So try and get it wet and even, but not too thick, especially on your last coat. That’ll give you the matt-est finish.
DeBeer also have a matting agent you can add to the 1-105 to give an even more matt finish, but I can’t remember the product code.
[quote=”sbooy42″ post=25409][quote=”Wydir” post=25402]Is this from the same painter on the same model of car on the same panel?[/quote]
Sorry confused. Is what from the same painter?[/quote]
You said that some jobs were seeing 13-14 oz per panel, while some were lower.
Wydir was asking if all of the other variables were the same, apart from the paint usage. Inferring that a different painter, or a different panel on a different car may well use more or less paint than your average.
If I remember I’ll run some figures off tomorrow and let you know our average over the past month.
Ah right, I know the sort of thing you mean.
Let’s hope I never have to do one in DeBeer as there are no remarks about ground coats or anything, and the formula looks nothing special – pretty much the same as Peugeot EZR :huh:
Guess I’ll be trying a sprayout tomorrow….
[quote=”InvictaRefinish” post=25352] I dont think this colour is that common in the UK as in the US and as yet havent had the pleasure to paint one at work.
[/quote]
Can’t say I’ve ever seen it to be honest.Looking on the DeBeer ICRIS system it just seems like any other silver. I guess I’m missing something!
That’s just crazy talk :silly: 😆
I like SATA.
There we are, I’ve come out of the closet and said it 😛 😆
I haven’t demo’d the 4000 yet, but I used a 2000hvlp for years as a base gun, and I’ve used both of the 3000’s. I found the 3000 RP to be a great gun, but very fast, even for me. I would like to get a demo of the 4000 RP as I’ve heard good things about it, but I still have my life long issue with SATA – that silly fan control on the side. What purpose it serves I don’t know, as once my fan is set I leave it be. And if you did want to use it to quickly narrow the fan down you’d still have to wind the material knob and air down to suit, so what’s the point? :unsure:
I know I’m in the minority, but being a leftie as soon as I pick up any SATA I immediately catch the fan control with my index finger and turn it down to spot. Not ideal!
Anyway, after my meaningless rant :blush: it’s really hard to say which gun is “The Best” as a gun that suits one person may not suit the next perfectly. Some may say a Ferrari is the best car on the road, but they don’t make one that I can throw my compressor into the back of, so they’re no good to me 😉
His exact words were “I don’t care what it costs, can you fix it?” :rofl
To be honest I don’t always use the mixing tips. For bigger jobs like this I squeeze the tubes straight out onto a board, then mix and apply like filler.
Thanks for that. It’s good to hear what products and techniques others are using.
Like you I try and hot weld wherever possible (this bumper won’t :cens ) then reinforce with Fusor. And again I always use the AP (6062?) before the 142. I do use the 114 myself, and like it a lot, but the 1-2 minute work time doesn’t give you long to smooth and shape it out. Sometimes its a case of slap some on and hope for the best 😆
Another great job Nex.
I ought to send you this bumper I’m repairing for a mate. It’s a very rare type for a VW Golf that’s almost irreplaceable. He’s split it from one side to the other, over 3 feet long! It’s taking a hell of a lot of Fusor :blink:
Out of interest, what primer do you use over the 142? Do you go straight for a 2K high build, or do you put a plastic primer / adhesion aid on first? And have you ever tried the 114 finishing adhesive?
Yes, we’ve got a single Burntwood push-through. It’s a bit smaller than I’d like sometimes, but it does the job.
I do the majority of the painting. I did used to rotate with prep, but it seems to flow much better with me spraying all the time. Plus it’s winter and I’m the boss, so I stay in the nice warm booth 😆 We’ve an old guy to do the de-masking & polishing, and three guys on prep. Most of the time they can keep up with me but there’s always plenty of other stuff to do for the odd half hour when there’s nothing ready to paint.
We’re on DeBeer 900 and I absolutely love the stuff, especially now they’ve added 13 high-strength tinters which have significantly increased covering power. I’m using their budget clear (8-214) at the minute. It’s great for the price, but they do have better ones available.
[quote=”Ben” post=25246]
A little slow is ok, beats re-dos and pissed off customers.[/quote]All day long.
Doing it right first time is much quicker in the long run.
The work I do now is probably closest to a refurb centre than anything.
I run the paintshop for a large multi channel car retailer (posh name for a car supermarket :lol1 ). We tidy up all the cars we buy in by repairing all the minor dents, scuffs, scratches and stone chip damage. We do lots of bumpers, and many front ends, averaging 2 or 3 panels per car. We don’t do any crash repair stuff here as that’s not the kind of stock we want to be selling to our customers, but with good quality second hand cars getting harder and harder to come by, we’re doing more work than we used to when we opened 4 years ago.
Before that I’ve been around a bit, everything from mobile smart repair to a dealers crash repair centre, a back street bodyshop to a place specialising in aftermarket spoilers and body kits.
[quote=”candyman” post=25061]4 partial cars a day for a flat rate shop translates from anywhere from 16 hours,to 40 and up,hell 4 completes would be 100+ hours! :wak
$20 bucks an hour isn’t enough for straight time workers.[/quote]25 hours to paint a car in the kind of economy shop we are talking about? :huh:
Maybe if they are doing some prep and all of the masking, but if we’re taking about just putting the paint on, then I’d say 2 hours at the most for a regular base & clear job. Painting a full car (10-12 panels) doesn’t take much longer than painting 3 or 4 panels, as most of your time is spent waiting for it to flash off anyway.
Welcome from a fellow Brit :welc
How about giving us a bit of background on you and your business 🙂
[quote=”thenextlevel” post=25029] As far as paying my painters I put them on commission, the last guy would be making [b]$20 hour if he paints 4 cars a day[/b]. I don’t have a problem paying a painter what he is worth, I am just having a problem finding someone who is worth what I am paying.[/quote]
Where do I sign?
That’s much more than I’m getting now, for much less work! :blink: :huh: 😆