Andy Taylor
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- July 14, 2011 at 8:56 pm #31755
I wouldn’t use a solvent, it tends to make it gloopy like you say. Normally I’ll shave the thick stuff off with a single edged razor blade, then go for the toffee wheel.
July 13, 2011 at 11:07 pm #31714Came out nice :rock
Did you put a sealer or ground coat on it to even out the colour, or did your red cover ok? I find most reds have a problem covering, especially over black.
July 9, 2011 at 4:48 pm #31610Great stuff Nick, cheers.
I can never quite get a car high enough on a jack to get the slide hammer in if the sill needs pulling downwards. We have plenty of 2 post ramps here, but then you have the ramp legs in the way and all that.
July 9, 2011 at 3:26 pm #31605Cool.
I’ve been toying with the idea of getting one of those. I must be getting lazy in my old age as I don’t like bending down much any more 😆
Is it stable enough for you to give a dented sill (rocker) a good pull with a stud welder? We get loads of those jobs for some reason.
July 3, 2011 at 5:23 pm #31526Yep, that’s the one Ryan.
I’ve tried emailing Megs UK, but they don’t seem to understand what I mean, and keep talking about their unigrit paper.
July 3, 2011 at 2:55 pm #31523Cheers Nick.
I didn’t really get along with that type though, but was really impressed by the flat type shown above. It didn’t look like it would do anything, but it got us out of a few sticky situations! The guy also had some miniature blocks from Meguiars. They looked like tiny pumice stones and were great at sanding out the final traces of a run, but I haven’t managed to source any of those either.
Good job I don’t get too many runs! (my finish is usually too dry for that :rofl )
July 3, 2011 at 1:46 pm #31521I’ve not used the Festool branded one, but I have played with something very similar that one of my staff had, and they work very well.
Nelson – yes, it’s basically a flat plate of metal that planes off the high spots. I haven’t found one for myself yet, and use a single sided razor blade instead, but will be on the lookout for one of these.
They’re also great for knocking off large dirt nibs.
Where’d you get it from paintpot?
July 3, 2011 at 1:39 pm #31520Al, I’d be sorely tempted to go base & clear if you really want a metallic.
Not much more work really, but a much better chance of getting it right. You can concentrate on getting the colour right with the base, and getting the finish right with the clear, rather than trying to do it all at once.
It might just be the fact that I’ve never used a single stage 2K metallic, but to be honest, it’s something I personally would avoid if at all possible. Straight colour sure, it’d be my first choice, but not metallic.
June 26, 2011 at 9:11 pm #31458Nice one Nex.
I’ve painted that colour a few times, and as you say, it isn’t the greatest at coverage.
June 25, 2011 at 12:17 am #31437As above – do you mean the aquabase?
If so then I’ve shot a few hundred gallons of the stuff, and is isn’t half bad. It isn’t the most user friendly water base I’ve used (that accolade goes to DeBeer 900), but I got along with it well enough.
I can give you a bit more info if that is indeed the product you mean.
June 25, 2011 at 12:12 am #31436I think you’d be very unlucky if they all did!
I know with celly (lacquer) primer you’re always going to lift something, but with the Lechler GTi 2K (I think that’s what you said you’re using) you’ve got much more of a chance as it has a much lower solvent content, so is less likely to “attack” the substrate(s)
I can’t exactly remember the thinner/reducer ratio of GTi, but I think it was something like 5-15%. Over a dodgy substrate I used to put a decent coat on at the lowest possible reduction (or even un-thinned), let that have a good flash to seal the surface, then apply another coat or two at a more reasonable percentage.
June 24, 2011 at 12:00 am #31420There are no hard and fast rules. As Wydir says, products vary so you need to follow the manufacturers instructions really. Yes with long term experience of a particular product you may be able to play around with those instructions, but think about it this way – the manufacturer has usually spent a long time developing and testing the product, so they know the best way it should be applied. Stick with what they say and you won’t be far wrong. 😉
June 22, 2011 at 2:25 pm #31401[quote=”alistair” post=20996]I always like cars part rubbed out. Its like archaeology or something seeing all the old paint jobs![/quote]
And wondering which layer’s going to wrinkle up when you prime it. 😆 - AuthorPosts