Ben Hart
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The ones I have are Cofra. By far the best I’ve had. I’ll gladly pay for the same boot when I replace them
Welcome to the site.
Your staffing seems a little odd to me, though. 4 in the paint side, 2 in the bodyside? Are the bodymen that fast or the painters that slow? Are your painters/preppers getting lots of small jobs, maybe spot repairs?
I wear steel toe work boots. Usually spend the $$$ to get good ones. The pair I have now are at least 18 months old, very light and comfortable. The materials are chemical resistant and work great. More comfortable than most of my other foorwear. These are starting to wear out and I’ll probably replace in the next 6 months or so. This pair was probably about $275, but worth every cent.
60% for me on the 1st one, 54 on the 2nd…I did go to a lot of car sows with my Grandpa when I was a kid, so I did recognize some
I’ve worked in 3 shops with screw type compressors. They are excellent for volume, speed drier/cleaner air and reduced noise, energy savings. The screw type is far superior.
The only reason I can think of for using a piston type is due to budget. If you are only going to have 2-3 guys you may be better off with the piston type. There are tons available at reasonable prices.
As with anything, quality counts. I would be more inclined to go with a high end piston type then to trust a low end rotary one. Devair is a decent name, but I am not familiar enough with them to comment on the quality of what you are looking at.
[quote=”Tallon” post=24588]Well first time tcpglobal has ever let me down.
I ordered the smc resin and it didn’t come with cream hardener, is it the same as the stuff that comes with body filler or do I need to get a hold of the right stuff?Thanks![/quote]
Not a big deal. The cream hardener is the same. If you don’t have enough, any local body supply jobber should be able to sell you a tube for a couple bucks.
Can you post a picture of the problem area?
Fiberglass can be easy to work, but more often than not, prefabricated fiberglass parts are junk and are rarely straight/fit well.
[quote=”arount” post=24553]So when they sand it down to the base paint to get the trash out they do not hurt the clear coat. I understand that all paint jobs may have trash but we are only talking about a quarter panel. If that happened in that little area they were really messy. No cost, it was bought off the lot with the scratch.[/quote]
Again, I can only speculate what needs done. But generally if there is trash in the paint, it can be denibbed/wetsanded and polished (within the clear). Repainting is only necessary if there is a lot of crap in there, or it is visible colour wise (chucks of stuff rather than dust).
Having worked at several dealers, I would consider talking to the salesman. Sometimes if there is damage in a sold vehicle that is negotiated as part of the sale, it is the sales department that is paying the bodyshop. Often times, the salesman will try to undercut the bodyshop to aid with a better price/profit in the sale. This may or may not be the case, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the shop is doing this as a charity case for the salesman.Not that its right for the bodyshop to not do their best, but there may be more to it than what it seems.
Again, I would take it back, let them know your concerns and let them take care of it. As in most cases it is just something that slipped through the cracks and I wouldn’t worry too much.
[quote=”bloverby” post=24550]Just take it back and let them do what they need to do.[/quote]
Exactly.
Without seeing pictures we can only speculate what the issue(s) are, could be something really minor. And yes, they clearcoated it. They wouldn’t have used Single Stage on it, so they would have to have cleared it. They are also correct about factory jobs having trash in the paint as well. Generally factory jobs are very clean and contain minimal amounts, but it is there. I am not defending them, but it is best to let them have it back and allow them to address your concerns.
Just as a question, though, how much did you pay? Did they give you some sort of a deal? Just for reference, fixing a small scratch on a Challenger 1/4, tri-stage at our Dealer would cost you about $1200 (for R&I of all trim/glass, repairing scratch and painting) depending on the size and location of said scratch.
It was nice meeting you Brad, you’re welcome anytime.
I got that Acura painted and ready to go Thursday. Wound up R&I the 1/4 glass myself since the glass guy wasn’t able to come. Came out pretty nice, I’ll post a pic when I get some time.
[quote=”ding” post=24519]And based on the title I just thought you were talking about what their Clears do :rofl :rofl[/quote]
Funny, thats the first thing I thought of too. Actually, I just realized I’m wearing a PPG T-Shirt…with a big hole in the arm pit :lol1
How much experience do you have?
If you are painting it, the right colour(s) can make all the difference. Deciding on a colour and possibly 2-toning it or adding some striping can make a huge dufference alone. Larger vehicles often look good with 2-toned as it breaks up all the monotone area on the side. A smaller vehicle may be better with a single colour and some nice pinstriping, racing stripes etc. Or just the right colour can make it flash.
What kind of vehicle are you looking to do?
All the disposable cups (3M, Norton, SATA, Devilbiss etc) will fit just about any gun. They sell adapters that thread into specific guns. Then the cups are all the same (universal).
[quote=”MoCoke” post=24418]if u want sincere advice, i wouldn’t waste my time or money. the kits are garbage, and eventually ull forget ur car even has one when driving and break it. not worth the time or money. if you absolutely wanna do something different to your car’s body, try something like shaving handles or locks off.[/quote]
Very good point. I don’t like them at all and would never own them. At work, I refuse to touch them as they are ALL junk. When I can, I avoid opening a can of worms, and that is all these things are…