Ben Hart
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[quote=”lariat06″ post=24155]Replaced the front fenders on my 1999 Mazda truck. The fenders were painted and cleared before installation.
Naturally they did not match the rest of the truck, although the paint store mixed according to the truck paint code.
They have been on the truck about 1 month. Can I DA them with 400 through the clear and repaint, or just wet sand and then repaint. :x[/quote]What colour is it?
Better paint lines have variants of a colour. The idea is to pick the variant that best matches the vehicle. Even then, most people will blend the colour into the adjacent panels (in this case, the front doors). Butt matching (as was done on your fenders) can be a bad idea with most colours.
[quote=”Andy T” post=24152]Nope, it didn’t last… :blink:[/quote]
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I like the 3M PPS as well.
I’m too dumb to use those RPS cups. :blush:
Thanks Ding. I’ll look into that one. I assume you’ve had one of these for a while?
[quote=”new2bodywork” post=24091]does anyone know what sata’s newest gun they have out for sealer?[/quote]
SATA’s newest guns are the 4000 series (in RP and HVLP). Why not use one of these or a 2000 or 3000 for sealer? I’m currently using a 2000 HVLP for sealer and am very happy with it.
[quote=”smooth” post=24092][quote=”Jayson M” post=24084]What other choices do you have in town for paint jobbers?Maybe it is time to move down the road,or do what I have done,call your jobber and tell him to come get his F@#king paint :rofl :rofl .
Here are a few ideas that can save you some cash.
1.Carborundum sand paper is made by norton(saint gobain abrasives) and it is always cheaper and identical to the higher priced norton,goes farther than 3m.
2.3m 233+ tape is nice but the carbo or norton premium or 3m yellow tape works just as good,3m white masking paper is cheap also.
3.Are you using sata rps cups for everything? If you are just try using it for your waterborne,and metal pots for sealer and clear.
4.You could start using a lower line of primers in your system as long as your jobber will warranty them eg omni mp 282.
5.I agree that $600 for 7.5 litres of clear is stupid,but on the flipside every cheap clear I have used has bit me in the ass.But one that I have used on some budget jobs is matrix Autoglas 40 LV,our cost on 7.5L kit is around $185,and be damned if it isn’t easy to spray and looks nice and glossy and stays that way.Can’t say that for upol,carsystem,rubberseal or any of the other cheap crap clears out there.[/quote]The two jobbers in my town carry PPg( which i am using )and dupont(which is not an option for me) :sick:
I’ll check into the sandpaper, sounds interesting because norton is what my jobber carrys anywhay.
I have myself ruined with the norton plastic cups for everything that i spray but it could be an option.
Im using the lower brand Shopline 2Kprimer already but cutting cost on Etch is not an option because corrosion is a problem in my area.
And the $600 clear is the one in my system that is for waterborn paint and i have peace of mind because it is fully warranted. And i like it alot.
How about buying online? anyone else doing it?[/quote]
Are you using any of the PPG Specialty Performance Products? They are PPGs Universal brand of misc. products and are priced well. PPG will warranty them under any of their paint lines. The etch, adhesion promoter and flexible primer are all good products. Their One Choice line has a lot of good options as well.
Why don’t you phone your Dupont Jobber (I assume its a NAPA/Cmax) and price some stuff out. May not be cheaper for the paint, but you may get a better price on everything else. At very least, it will get you some leverage with your supplier. You could always stick with your PPG paint from your supplier and buy all the shop supplies from the DuPont jobber.
Have you ever given DuPont a good honest shot? I know lots of guys don’t like it, and I would agree that the PPG water base is nicer. However, if the price is better you may grow to be happy with the switch
[quote=”bobwires” post=24085]I checked out a bunch of dynabrade tools carefully at SEMA – dear god, those things are amazing. I think I will save my money for everything I can get from those guys. Great tools. :rock
Ben, why go cheap? :deadhorse
I’ve used the solid rubber wheels in a drill and melted the paint right off a bumper :whistle: :rofl[/quote]
The rubber wheel on the drill works fine, but the other tool is a little easier to handle and when doing large areas makes a big difference. I don’t want to go cheap, but the Snap-On is overpriced. The Wurth is a little pricey. If I can find a good tool for a better price I will buy it.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=24079]how bout not buying 600 dollar clear? plenty of clears out there for a fraction of the price and perform well. stop buying everything 3M[/quote]
Indeed. I constantly try new/different products to see how they are (more so shop supplies than paint). Surprisingly, some of the cheaper products are often better than the expensive stuff. As long as its compatible with what I am using, I will give it a shot.
Smooth, does your supplier sell all PPG products, or just the Nexa line?
Have you priced product out from your competitors? Have you talked to your supplier and tried to negotiate at all? I am not sure how many options you would have in your area, so you may be limited. What are you guys charging for paint and body materials on your estimates? Can you justify charging more?
You could just bend over and take it like a man… :whistle:
Way to confuse the new guy…lol
My suggestion is to figure out what products you are using and read the tech sheets. Stick with one product line for everything and go from there.
I’ve got a roll of mechanics wire and a couple basic stands. With a little thought, just about anything can be made to work. I used a tire iron last week to prop up a trunk on our stand so I could spray it in and out…
I am glad we don’t have more stands, we just wouldn’t have the space to store them
[quote=”chumpi” post=24027]hey!! I used the 2K primer Nason 421-17 (tan)and so far no bleeding thanks 2 u guys problem solved! Thanks[/quote]
Glad to hear that helped. :cheers
[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=23992][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23987]Black SS cleared comes to mind. The ones I have used have all but been discontinued. Look into PPG concept or maybe Glasurit 22 line if you want to go that route.
For a BC/CC option Sikkens 245 autowave toner straight is a very good looking deep black.[/quote]
Thats what I’m talking about. Sikkens 245. Thats black. Some of these others are Obama black. Light , bright and almost white.[/quote]
:lol1 :cheers
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23987]Black SS cleared comes to mind. The ones I have used have all but been discontinued. Look into PPG concept or maybe Glasurit 22 line if you want to go that route.
For a BC/CC option Sikkens 245 autowave toner straight is a very good looking deep black.[/quote]
If just a solid colour, I’d do single stage. Otherwise I agree with Ryan, that the Autowave 245 is nice and black. DuPont has the Superjet black in Chroma base (more black than the blackest Cromax toner).
Its nice to hear good things about other low VOC clears, some of them just aren’t up to par with the others.