Ben Hart
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On those, typically 400-600 with an interface pad works good for the flatter areas then red scotch brite pads for the rest. Shouldn’t take more than 20-30 minutes per cover. Avoid burning through the primer, obviously.
Then just seal and paint
Kinda what Ding is getting at…I do each one a little different depending in what the finish is. A raw plastic one can be prepped in 5-10 minutes. A painted bumper with lots of edges crevices can take quite a while
I don’t know if I have any pics… That was probably 4 years ago…
I sectioned about 10″ or so up from the bottom where there is the only body line through the panel in that area.
You could do as mentions earlier (along the roof) or else splice through the window area. I would think splicing through the window area may be more work by the time you fit it, weld it, the fill and block the multiple splices…
Usually on those vans we just repair them, even if the damage is pretty nasty…
If the damage is that high, you could do the whole side.
At the top seam (along the roof) you could leave about1/2″ of the old panel all the way. Then trim the new one to lap over it. It is non structural, so it could be glued or welded the whole way, then seam seal it. If done carefully it would look like factory when complete and be just as strong, and save the hassle if the roof.
Can you post a pic of the damaged side?
I’ve sectioned the lower portion on one of this. Sectioned it along the lower body line with a used piece. It was a long ass weld but really didn’t take too long and came out nice.
How many windows are in the side? Factory windows?
As mentioned, the hood is SMC, not fiberglass. You would need SMC resin, as the glass resin won’t adhere properly. Otherwise the repair is the same.
As for the hood, most shops would probably replace it. To repair it properly, both the inner and outter pieces would need double sided repairs. You would have to remove part of the inner to access the inner side of the outter piece then jig up a way to rebond the inner piece bracing its inside ( if that makes sense). It’s a pain in the but, but completely doable if you have the time
I have no experience with this clear, but how about this…
Is it possible the problem isn’t fish eyes/contamination? Maybe you are getting some micro blistering or solvent pop? I have seen other (low Voc) speed clears get odd looking solvent pop that looks like fish eyes.
If you look in the centre of them, can you see a speck of crap, like you often do with fish eyes?
[quote=”Nexson” post=33357]Thanks jay. I am currently using the fine line around the edges works really well if you put it down for good after a couple tries otherwise I notice it likes to walk in a little around the tight edges. I will look into the tape you suggested. Not too concerned with the price point.[/quote]
Which fine line are you using? What size (width) of fine line?
One trick that may help, just before you put your tape onto the part, run your finger over the sticky side quickly to slightly dull the adhesive. This will prevent transfer onto the part.
That’s what I was referring to. Any burn through will show.
[quote=”Anders” post=33301]I have a question; if you buff through a flowcoat (hitting the “old” clear beneath it), will it show?[/quote]
Yes, it will show. It would have to be repainted (with some basecoat over the burn through).
They can be very tricky. If a razor blade is bent you can carefully shave the run down, then it gets to be like blocking bodywork on any reverse/low crown, and is a matter of finding something suitable you can use as a block. Using masking tape on the highest parts of the body lines will help make sure you don’t burn through prematurely. Very tricky, but it some instances it can be done.
Most urethane primers spray best with something around a 1.8. Depending on the viscosity of the primer a 1.5 may work well. However it may be a struggle on larger jobs and in warmer weather. Watch your mil build as it won’t put out quite as much.
What particular primer do you intend to use?
Nothing wrong with that. I would still consider flattening the run with a razor and blocking it (starting with a coarser paper and working up to 600-800). Nothing worse than re spraying it and having a little “ghost” of a run.
Good luck, I’m sure it’ll turn out great this time for you!
I bought an SRI Pro earlier this year. I do like the bigger fan pattern and the speed. It can handle pretty big jobs (for a mini gun). The SRI Pro came with a couple air caps so it can be HVLP or Compliant/RP with a quick change. I have used older SATA Minijets, and this outperforms them. I don’t know how the current minijet sprays, but it sure looks nice. I would have liked the Current minijet, but without a demo on it I was unsure.
Sanding and polishing isn’t always an option. When I’ve gotten runs, I usually try to salvage first in hopes of polishing, knowing that I might not quite get it or may burn through and need to repaint. Fixing runs can be tricky.
I have fixed some pretty nasty ones and they’ve come out great…some, however, you just have to repaint.
My method is to take a razor blade and place a little masking tape on the ends (so the corners don’t dig in) and use it as a file. I will file the run and surrounding area until visually it is flat, and I can not feel the run anymore. Then I’ll start blocking. Typically 800 dry seems to be a good start to get it going, then move to 1200-1500 wet, then 2000 (blocking each step). The 800 scratches can be tricky to get out, but they will come out. It is important to be careful as you will be removing a lot of material. The step with razoring it flat and then the 800 is cruicual for getting it straight.
There are other methods (Jimmo has a video of the putty method, I think), but none have worked as well for me.