Ben Hart
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First off, anyone who is trying to do good work will get (some) runs now and then. If you don’t, then you probably aren’t trying hard enough…
Having a gun that is suitable for your product is crucial. Correct tip size, adjustment etc. You need to adapt to the environment. Temperature is a big factor, as is proper reducer selection, and following the proper mix ratio. While some products may respond well to being over reduced a little bit, it is best not to. At least not until you are very familiar with the product. Flash time is a big one, putting your second coat of clear on too soon can be disastrous with most clears. Limit the number if coats to what is recommended (ie: 2 coats of clear).
Follow the tech sheets, make “minor” adjustments as needed to suit you. There is no need to re-invent/ experiment excessively.
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=33192]I agree with ya on the one choice ben. But tying up my only booth just so I can prep a bumper I’m not fond of. But I will say its better than a redo if that’s what it takes. I am contimplating a different system/ adhesion promoter. What works for u?[/quote]
I wouldn’t baje just the bumper, but when you know you have one coming up just throw it in the booth on the bake cycle during the next job you paint
Have your rep sell you this instead:
[url=https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileID=f13917c0-ae67-43e1-875b-cdff15f18f7c]Deltron Adhesion Promotors[/url]That one choice stuff is a joke. I would go back to the regular spray able adhesion promoter. It’s cheaper and works much better.
One thing you can do is bake the bumper first. Then wash it really well and prep it. Or washing with really hot water and detergent can help and/or use the presta scuff stuff.
There are some good aggressive waterbourne cleaners out there too that will help.
Like Smooth said, figure out what your gun manufacturer recommends then fine tune it from there.
Some paint and some gun manufacturers have info for specific paint products and specific guns. This is not in the tech sheet. These give you very accurate info and can really help you match the best guns and settings for a product.
But at the end of the day, it is up to the painter to make it work for him. There are no perfect guns/settings for everyone in all scenarios.
Like Smo
I don’t know if these are just North American or not, but I like the Royal brand Uni-rag. They are big, inexpensive and last a Long time. Once they’ve been used / “broken in” they work amazing.
They are kinda old school, but all the fancy advanced new ones I’ve tried, I haven’t liked.
I agree with Ding. If they confirmed it as a no, then take it back. I would also politely let your supplier know the situation…
Dt870 is the non low VOC reducer. It is probably fine to use (may be nicer to spray with actually).
As for comparability between the DBC and the sealer… You are probably fine. The low voc base (enviro) was initially being used with the DBC and global lines of sealers and clears. So in theory, it should be backwards compatible.
I hate doing anything outside if the tech sheet. My advice would be to go beyond your jobber and ask the tech rep directly just to be certain.
[quote=”jim” post=33115]you can tell when it is a factory repaint, because it is usually shiny in beetween the layers. somehow there paint sticks to itself and they dont sand it. You can see the shiny in the layers of the feather edge.[/quote]
I’ve noticed that too. I always wondered what the process was. I just assume with them using different products and being fresh that it gets great chemical adhesion. I’ve never seen one peel…
Probably either a factory repainted…not all that uncommon (especially on Fords for some reason).
The other possibility is that the dealer painted it. I’ve worked at 3 dealerships. It’s not uncommon for vehicles to get damaged in transit or on the lot.
Yes, a 2k clear is infinitely better and will fix your problem. It would be a good idea to strip off the 1k clear and redo the job.
In my opinion, 1k clear has no useful purpose.
You certainly can apply it over paint and primer if needed. But it is best not to. Using any filler, it is generally best to apply over the bare substrate (metal, plastic etc).
I’ve used Audatex and Mitchell quite a lot. Audatex is easy to use and as up to date with current info as possible. Only real downfall is it can be a tad slow (hopefully you have a good computer to run it) and it isn’t quite as polished as Mitchell (but that’s just aesthetics, it is just as functional as Mitchell). The communication portion ( if you are on any DRP) is very easy to use…better than Mitchell’s in my opinion. Audatex seems to have great support (and training) if needed.
First, with the glass leave it. If it is urethane, it is best to leave a thin smooth even layer. Urethane has excellent cohesion and will stick better to itself than other materials…so leave it to the glass guy to do what he feels is best.
As for the hole, I would be tempted to weld. And if you cut patches for bonding, you could use those fir welding, it will make it easier.
You can bind if you insist… The only problems there is you may get ghosting later on, and some bonding products cannot be filled over with polyester filler or putty.