Ben Hart
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[quote=”Canuck” post=16223]I’ve got Pro Form W&G…what’s the real stuff. I do tack between coats and will invest in real waterbased cleaner. I just shot the base – went well for round one anyway. Gotta let it flash and get back out there.[/quote]
The Pro Form is actually not too bad, I have used it on a lot of my personal jobs (yes better products are available and do a better job). However, you should be using a final wipe cleaner instead of wax and grease remover at this point.
The fish eye(s) might be from something else (gun, air line, paint mixing containers, something in the environment, rags/towels etc).
Usually when they are from the surface not being clean you tend to get a cluster of them. Let the sealer dry, then sand it well and reapply. Looks like you are doing a good job otherwise
On a side note, it looks like you’re a frequent visitor to Princess Auto :clappy
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=16210][quote=”dcturcotte” post=16209]We call them: bondomerchants :clappy[/quote]
my my my aint we feeling cocky today smarta$[/quote]Well…you kind of ask for it with a username like that. You could have picked something like the pick n’ file master…or bodysolder merchant :p
Happy Birthday!
[quote=”Canuck” post=16165][quote=”Jayson M” post=16154]U-tech,lesonal.sikkens are all akzo nobel products,the non mixing brands does not apply.I think you are going to be shy on paint,you need to do a let down panel to see how many coats are needed for your mid coat 2,4,6 coats.Solvent needs more coats of midcoat to get your effect.White sealer is definately a good idea.[/quote]
Looks like I’d better get some more paint…another pint? I’ll see if they have some white sealer.[/quote]
Another pint of each should be ok.
As Jayson said, though, a letdown panel would be a great idea. Know ahead exactly how many coats of each you will need. That will help you decide how much more paint to buy.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=16154]U-tech,lesonal.sikkens are all akzo nobel products,the non mixing brands does not apply.I think you are going to be shy on paint,you need to do a let down panel to see how many coats are needed for your mid coat 2,4,6 coats.Solvent needs more coats of midcoat to get your effect.White sealer is definately a good idea.[/quote]
I need to comprehend what I read better…I was still thinking he was using U-Pol clear :unsure:
[quote=”timbo” post=16155]you guys are right….see if you ever get jay to admit when he’s off…HA!!
the listing is not identical in description of 3000 and 4000s either…you gotta study it to understand what I’m saying.
standard now is the old non-digital description in the abtm catalogs and it threw me…
The description listing on 4000s are standard and digital…but both are HVLP. Sorry….forgive me? :blush:[/quote]No soup for you!
:rofl[quote=”Canuck” post=16151]Sorry – U-Tech 4.0 clear (I’ve just finished using my UPol primer…) and I should be able to make it under the wire if I need more base! I’ve got a fairing and 2 small side pieces and the tank is 15 gallons. No fenders etc. I was going to seal it using some Dimension sealer that I’ve got – it’s light grey. Thoughts?[/quote]
As for the sealer, light gray should be ok (white would be better). You might have enough paint, but I don’t know how you spray/how efficient you and your equipment might be.
The lesonal base should be mixed 2:1 so you will only end up with 3/4 litre mixed from 1 pint. I think I would be comfortable with more available. You will probably need at least 3 coats of each colour.
As for the clear, I have never been a fan of mixing brands. The lesonal Pro Air clear is a great product that is east to use and has an awesome finish.
What colour of primer are you spraying over or are you sealing it? A pint of white base doesn’t go all that far. You may wind up needing more ground coat than mid coat (ground coat MUST cover.hide, mid only needs to achieve the correct colour)
How many parts and how big (tank, fenders, fairing…???). Like Jayson said, it might be a good idea to get some more, just in case.
It sounds like the temperature is really giving you grief. If the vehicle, air or paint is cooler than 15 (Celsius) it really won’t work.
Also, using a different brand of clear than base can be problematic, especially with water. Can’t say all the problems that might (or might not) arise, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it.
If the clear is dried well, you may be able to scuff it well and repray 2 coats of clear (making sure there is lots of heat)
[quote=”Wydir” post=16127]well I just stumbled across some auctions on a german ebay site and there selling 4000 Digitals for $515.00us :chair[/quote]
It would only make sense for them to be cheaper there…
I would have a hard time believing it is worth upgrading from a 3000, though.
Wow, that is definitely different.
Excellent work though. Post more pics for his future jobs Bondo!
Well…I am asuming you are using solvent base (although the technique for water isn;t that different)
as for the ground coat, lay however many coats it takes for proper hiding (use a spray out card to verify. Proper flash in between coats is essential. A medium coat should work well, you definitely do not want it to heavy/wet.For the mid coat, make sure you have enough and mix (reduce) as much as you will need. You don’t want to have to ho back half way through and possibly change this colour. Be as consistent as possible making sure all the gun settings don’t change as well as your technique. Spray like a robot in a methodical pattern with even overlap and even gun distance. If you have odd shaped pieces think about how you will cover them evenly. It is a good idea, while you are spraying the ground coat to get a feeling for how you can do the mid coat (what direction to spray the parts in, should you do edges first, or last, how you will angle the gun around the pieces etc). If you manage to be as consistent as possible, the colour should be great amongst pieces. Again, don’t spray wet/heavy and allow adequate flash time.
I recommend an extended flash time before clearing. You will probably wind up with 5 to 8 coats of base (lots of potential for trapped solvents). Typically I would at least, double the flash time or a little more, just to be safe.
Not sure if you have done a lot of small parts before, but when you clear be consistent as well. Small oddly shaped parts can be easy to run, so take your time and be consistent (gun distance, overlap etc).
I am sure you will do fine.
Oh, the most important thing to do is take lots of pictures so we can see your masterpiece later. Good luck!
Maybe Mo sprays with night vision goggles…
Have to have a lot of respect for you though, if I were spraying with that kind of light , I don’t even know if I’d be able to see the car well enough to get any paint on it, let alone get a great looking finish.
Looks good.
Can’t say I would want to sand that beast that many times, though.
Post some pics when its assembled.
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=16081]getting those frame horns back aint all that hard but id be willing ta bet the one rail is drove back an has a bit of a sag in it so after a guy corrects the end ur gonna have ta pull the diamond out an level the sag out really not that bad of a job but it looks ta me that this guy is just a lil outta his league on this gem :wak :wak :wak :wak i get jobs like this quite often an charge about 500$ ta pull em an figure that give me time ta spend the day with em an most the time im done by noon…no foolin[/quote]
Exactly. It isn’t all that bad of a job…if you know what you are doing and have the equipment.