Ben Hart
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[quote=”bodymanhelper” post=16077]I was told that here in california its against the law to splice a frame rail. Ben in my opinion to repair the bronco that truck needs to be put on a frame rack and measured to make iit square and leval.[/quote]
The truck should have been pulled first (frame then body). Then it should have been determined how to repair the rest of the job. The rail might be able to be straightened with a properly positioned pull and some heat. If that didn’t work, then that rail should be heated as hot as possible to be pulled back as close as possible, then sectioned (spliced).
There is nothing wrong with splicing a frame rail if it is done correctly. I don’t know anything about California, but I would have a hard time believing it is illegal to do so there. Especially since many ,manufacturers recommend splicing the front section of rails. Again, it is a matter of using the correct parts, equipment and techniques.
[quote=”TheDoctor” post=16068]I guess it will just be interesting to try and do distance measure to get that whole situation straight…measurement would have been easier with the radiator support still attached, then there would be some holes up top to do cross measurements with and also check level. Oh well, I wouldn’t want to try and do that without a frame rack.[/quote]
Exactly. That thing will need a good pull and some heat. However, I am sure that left rail could be pretty weak (work hardened) if not done extremely carefully.
Make sure to get lots of runs and other defects so you can claim the gun sucks and maybe get a better price 😛
Welcome…just know that you can never leave…
(unless you log off)
Thanks for the input. I will see what happens in the next few days and make a well thought decision, accordingly. I will have a good talk with my boss tomorrow and see where that road leads…
Well, not to be an a$$…but most paint lines have some colours that match great. When I was using chromabase I could almost butt match PS2, but some others would be way out. Just saying not to jump to conclusions based on the match of 1 colour.
However, I am sure overall the colours aren;t bad and the price sounds good
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15900]I don’t think it really makes that much difference. If I’m painting a doghouse I always start at the bottom and work my way over. Some jobs I start high some I start low. Never noticed a difference. If doing a roof I will always do it first.[/quote]
I usually start wherever best fits the job, high or low. And as Bondo said, the most important thing is to work the wet edge.
I must have missed that that lesson at school…
Why wouldn’t it seat better?
Your work looks great!
…but for some reason, that green interior turns me on
Looks great!
Gotta love single stage black.
Welcome to the site. In it regularly or not, I am sure you are very knowledgeable. Feel free to post pics of your work!
Yep…urethane is a 2 part system. Until both parts crosslink with each other it will not harden. It will dry and become soft (as you see) but that will be it.
It sucks, and I am sure most of us have had to do it, or help others do it, but it must be stripped off.
As mentioned acetone may work, I have used gun wash. See what works, just be careful not to damage any trim or what not.
[quote=”Jinx” post=15792]Well today I did some more sanding… wanted to see how good it looked so I used 600 wet to get a little reflection. Turns out it looked really nice but has a tiny jog in the reflection. If you look down the side normally it looks straight but if you look at something across the yard you can see the object has a little bend to it.
I tried to get it out by sanding more but couldnt get it out. I was doing the X pattern while sanding. I decided to try something a little different and sanded in a circular motion with a 12″ block from top to bottom in one motion working across the whole panel and it came out perfect.
Has anyone else sanded that way before? I always use to sand in an X pattern but after I did it this way the other door and quarter came out perfect too.
Also, whats your guys input on sanding with 220,320,600 wet and using sealer right before paint? pros or cons?
Talked to a local guy that stops at 320 and seal coats it every time before painting. I have always sanded 320 400 600 and painted it.[/quote]
The sanding direction depends on what you are doing. “X” sanding is usually used for body filler and blocking primer. The “X” is more of a starting point: depending on the shape of the panel you may want to sand in different directions.
Final sanding (if not done with a DA) is often done in a straight line (in line with the body…often front to back). Sanding in a circular motion often leads to deep scratches that can be hard to hide.
As far as what you finish with before sealer, read the tech sheet. Most sealers will cover 400 grit (some finer, some coarser). Some may cover 320, but in 2 coats. I usually finish in 500 on a DA (with an interface pad) before sealing.
[quote=”timbo” post=15745]What is that DTM Urethane Bob?
I thought all the DTM were epoxy “hybrids”.
Just wondering cause I have used urethane, epoxy, epoxy-hybrid, and polys…..plus… :pcorn:[/quote]There are a lot of different products available. It is the resins in the material that make it either epoxy or urethane (or others, or a mix). What makes it DTM is more a mix of other additives. Anything DTM has to do 2 things: give adhesion to bare metal and provide corrosion protection. I believe, generally, Epoxy provide better adhesion to bare metal than urethane. Some urethanes have good corrosion protection and can bridge over small areas of bare metal (like with many urethane sealers). They often aren’t recommended over large bare metal areas, but can give adequate adhesion to smaller areas.
Well…the question is weather the metal is high or the spot is low…or maybe a combination of both.
I would consider using a pick hammer and/or body file to bring down the metal just a hair, then re-skim with putty (assuming it is not deep). If the metal is high and you just fill the low area you are only smoothing the transition, but it is still high.
Be very gentle when working it and use a very good flowing (thin) polyester glazing putty. Too much work on the metal, too much filler or too much blocking in that area will only make more work for you in the end.
Where on the vehicle is this spot, can you post a pic?