Ben Hart
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Nice “vintage” pics!
I believe that is what my grandfather had when he was still working. I am sure they beat my Mac hammers and dollies hands down.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Dag wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]I’ve always been impressed with the design and quality of the European builds :cheer:[/quote]are you talking about this one Stone?
http://www.google.se/imgres?imgurl=http://storm.oldcarmanualproject.com/reliant/robin/Reliant%2520Robin%25201e.jpg&imgrefurl=http://storm.oldcarmanualproject.com/reliantrobin.htm&h=828&w=1160&sz=92&tbnid=BV1sEVdh_DfDGM:&tbnh=107&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dreliant&hl=sv&usg=__lv3YzXtzVhPI5rGGejDKJNrMcJo=&sa=X&ei=4QtLTIKxIoL68AblyJ0z&ved=0CC4Q9QEwAw%5B/quote%5D
Probably means just those eastern block countries 😉
Havent seen too many good French built cars :whistle: or english built cars… of course then there was the Yugo :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]:pcorn: there is good and bad in everything …… right bondo 😉 :P[/quote]
yes there 😉 is[/quote]Doesn’t matter what it is, they are all junk. :lol1
If you started your first coat with medium and realized it was too fast, you should be ok to do the next coat with the slower product…just not the other way around.
Again, sealer should be used for both cases.
But honestly…if someone isn’t paying for the labour or materials, are you going to give it away for free?
I’m sure with some waterborne basecoats that you can put solvent right over top just fine
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]you should always seal bumper covers. especially raw. you need a good foundation to lay that base on and adhesion promoter just isnt it.[/quote]
i completly agree with you. you should always seal.
but i have done plenty of them to prove you wrong.[/quote]Indeed sealer should be used as a layer of “cushion” to protect the paint from damage such as rock chips.
However, I have done repairs w/o sealer, just applying base over the adhesion promoter. Seems to work ok. My policy is you get what you pay for
The shop I am at now uses the PPG sponges…
But before here I usually took a gray or gold scotch brite pad with plastic prep paste (whatever brand floats your boat) and abraded/cleaned it as well as I could, particularly in the cracks. I then would use the paint manufacturers products.
With DuPont, I would blow the bumper dry, then wipe it with the plas-stick cleaner (2319s or 2320s) to aid in adhesion and reduce static. Then tack, apply the Plas-stick adhesion promoter (2330s), 1 coat of sealer then topcoat.
With PPG I would dry the bumper, use the Global plastic cleaner (D846), tack, apply the Global adhesion promoter (D820) then apply 1-2 coats of flexible primer/sealer (which they no longer sell). Then topcoat.
Sherwin Williams is basically the same. This is the process I use, it has been very successful for me. I prefer the wet on wet process as opposed to applying a primer surfacer since I only want to prep it once. With that said, I am very picky about accepting new raw plastic bumpers/parts.
try putting less on (hold the can at a greater distance). If you need more, let it flash a few minutes than go back and lightly put a little more on.
sorry to hear about your problem :ohmy:
And not to be an ass or anything, but did you not have a fire extinguisher or even some water handy.
Usually when I repair panels like that I try to do all my R&I first, then in the rare event that some insulation catches at least you will have some holes/access to get the fire out.
I’ve used it years ago. Did you have a specific question?
I found it is ok for a cheap aerosol gravel guard. Nothing special about it. I like the 3M products a little better, especially with the special gun.
I would use a razor blade to knock the runs down, then lightly scuff the panel with something like 800 to open it up and allow it to gas off.
YOu are probably going to need to repaint it since it sounds like it is bad. Sand the whole thing real well making sure to completely remove the runs and solvent pop. When you go to respray I would recommend 1 good coat of sealer first to prevent any reaction. Lay light coats of base and lay medium-wet coats of clear instead of full wet coats. Make sure to allow ample flash times. If possible, increase the temp in the booth while spraying to whatever you are comfortable with (25-30 degrees). Then again, allow ample time before baking and make sure the bake cycle is adequate for your clear.
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hey Ben, do you body guys prime your own work or does the painter?
Also..that water borne base looks weird![/quote]The painter primes and preps everything. He does not block the primer any more than necessary so you need to make sure it is fricken straight and that the paint edge is feathered really well.
The Dakota looks to be a total loss thus far.
Bondo, did you have all your servings of vegetables today? I know I did :lol1
Renfrew is a lot smaller than the last dealer shop I was it. Including myself there are 4 bodyman and 1 painter. My job is as a bodyman, but since I have experience as a painter and don’t mind doing it now and them, I will fill in. The painter is very fast/efficient/consistant so I rarely do any painting here. The last shop I was at I was the only bodyman, the only estimator and often was the painter/prepper too. Every shop I have worked at I have managed to do a little of both for whatever reason…
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i personally love the yellow tape. i have tried many different ones and in the summer here with the 100% humidity its the only one that sticks to itself. its priced reasonably as well. [b]according to the 3m rep the adhesive on it is the exact same as what is on the green tape. the paper is the only thing that is slightly different. i think 3m isn’t selling as much green tape as they should so instead of lowereing the price on the green stuff the yellow is a way to drop the price without admiting that they have been gouging everyone for years.[/b][/quote]My thoughts exactly. well said!
Stud welder/Uni-Spotter.
It is a good tool, however I rarely use it. I prefer a similar machine (panel beater). It is even more expensive. However it is faster, uses 1 reusable tip and generally puts less heat into the panel.
I would avoid drilling holes and pulling since you risk tearing the metal when pulling. Also, the heat of the mig welder when welding the holes closed will likely warp the panel, especially if it is fairly flat and/or thin.
Like RatStang said, if you set the welder low and weld a washer or whatever you want it will work well and be easily removed. The key is to keep the weld as small/cool as possible.
