Barry Overby

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  • December 17, 2011 at 5:03 am #34731

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=24112]Why in the fuk would you jamb door handles,put them in,sand and mask around them???Do you brush your teeth thru your ass too??Geebus you do it strange in the hills :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]

    He just knows from experience that he can’t snap in a Honda actuating rod without scratching the paint on the door. :lol1

    December 16, 2011 at 9:28 pm #34712

    I use this dynabrade. http://www.tooltopia.com/dynabrade-18258.aspx

    December 12, 2011 at 1:52 am #34644

    We usually use Crest for the Toyota’s.

    http://www.crestauto.com/products/coatings.htm

    December 11, 2011 at 1:35 am #34629

    [quote=”ding” post=24021]320 dry on a fine orbit da might work. but more often than not in a few months you will see those sand scratches. may look good going out the door but it wont stay that way. and just cause the owner doesnt see them, doesnt mean they’re not there.
    and obviously if this guy knew how to make 320 work he wouldnt be here asking what to prep with :whistle: not like he got his start filling roof skins with 5gl pails of bondo :rofl :rofl[/quote]

    Well for what it’s worth, on stuff I paint at the house I finish with 500-600 whether I’m sealing or not because I feel better prepping my stuff a little further out.

    I will note however that we have a deer hit black cobalt in the shop at this moment that I did a quarter repair on a year ago and there’s no sand scratches showing on that year old repair that was finished to 320 and sealed. Seen plenty of others that look fine later on as well.

    Dry sanded with an interface pad on an orbital seems to work with the products we use at the shop.

    Only time I’ve seen ’em is when our prepper is lazy and doesn’t go over the bodyguys work with the orbital, then the straight hand blocked 320 scratches are vaguely noticeable later on.

    December 10, 2011 at 11:54 pm #34624

    At work we stop at p320 dry for anything that’s getting sealed. Seems a little coarse to me too but the jobs turn out fine. :unsure:

    December 9, 2011 at 6:40 am #34579

    Just for good measure….

    [img]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/jack.jpg[/img]

    [img]http://ireadculture.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/WeedWars.jpg[/img]

    [img]http://img.poptower.com/pic-75081/weed-wars-discovery-tv-show.jpg[/img]

    December 9, 2011 at 6:37 am #34578

    :stoned

    Yup, that’s him. :rock

    December 6, 2011 at 2:28 am #34520

    Is the universal primer a 1k or 2K(has to be activated) product.

    December 5, 2011 at 9:34 pm #34516

    Are you using red cream hardener in your filler and a 1k primer?

    December 5, 2011 at 9:31 pm #34515

    Are you using red cream hardener in your filler and a 1k primer?

    December 3, 2011 at 4:41 am #34484

    Nice :rock

    Looks more like a Mercury Merkur than an escort.

    November 20, 2011 at 7:44 pm #34316

    Good Job Ding. :rock

    November 19, 2011 at 6:47 pm #34293

    Over here on the east coast essential is quite a bit cheaper than omni. Essential is fleet paint, very tough stuff, much more difficult to buff than omni.

    November 12, 2011 at 8:12 am #34152

    :lol1 Nope, couldn’t have come out of our shop. No double decker dog box in the bed. No 3″ body lift with 33″ tires on 12″ wide wheels. :whistle:

    November 11, 2011 at 4:30 pm #34120

    $506 w/ free shipping at tooltopia.

    http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=ls400

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 470 total)