brandon dingwell
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the dynabryde one is the best. Snap on wanted 500 for their version. you can get the dynabryde through autobodytoolmart for under 400 with all the wire brushes and for about 350 for just the tool with the rubber wheel
[quote=”Andy T” post=24069] I don’t believe in sealers. To me it’s extra time and money spent on something that’s only there to disguise poor prep work. Just my feelings on it.[/color]
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For some reason I find this comment funny :whistle: :rofl :rofl :rofl[quote=”smooth” post=24044]You came to the right place. :welc[/quote]
You sure about that :blink:
Welcome to the sitejust turn the air pressure on the spray gun down to about 4-5 psi and it will put the clear on with a texture that matches perfect 👿
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=24026]for crying out loud ya goobers were talkin a complete here???/ :blink: repair it seal the bitch base it an clear it an ya theres finer grits if it make ya feel good go 400 grit but ive never had 320 bite me unless i wasnt sealing jeez :wak :wak :wak[/quote]
then when your done sand it with 1200 and buff with superduty on a black foam pad. then slather the bitch with some zymol :wak :wak320 dry on a fine orbit da might work. but more often than not in a few months you will see those sand scratches. may look good going out the door but it wont stay that way. and just cause the owner doesnt see them, doesnt mean they’re not there.
and obviously if this guy knew how to make 320 work he wouldnt be here asking what to prep with :whistle: not like he got his start filling roof skins with 5gl pails of bondo :rofl :rofl[quote=”bondomerchant” post=24016]ive done both 320 an 400 an never had a problem as long as i did a proper job sealing it 😉 if ya put a coat of sealer on an still see sand scratches then ya need another coat :teach of sealer :chair :chair :chair :chair back in the day we used ta do em with 220 an use synthol enamel sealers b4 topcoating an never had any issues either course some folks could break a crowbar in a sand box 2 😛 😛 :rofl[/quote]
OK ODG :wak320 grit for final prep. Good luck with that :whistle:
No one is soft. You asked about painting over original paint that was in good condition. Turns out you need to weld in patch panels, do body work then paint.
It’s a little more than a scuff and shoot. The steps are diff. Every thing you do from fitting the parts, welding them all the way to the paint will affect your outcome
if you want to know just the proper steps to paint it then thats fine but dont blame us if you dont do the other steps properly and the repaired areas look like ass.As far as prepping a good surface. wet sand it with 600 grit. grey scuff pad the nooks and crannies and you are good to go 😉
WHAT. so no one else cares that old ProBase is also old Freebase :pcorn:
Why not just spend a couple hundred and have a professional detailer give the outside a good going over. Bet you’ll be surprised 😉
of course if the paint is in good condition, then why the need to repaint it :whistle:
[quote=”Andy T” post=23958]Sorry, that can’t be OEM BMW paint – there’s not enough peel in it :p :rofl[/quote]
Come on. I see plenty of peel in that photo :rofl :rofl :rofl
It is lil d after all :whistle:my rep was telling me the non-low voc version wasnt that great but that the low voc kept a good gloss. must be the lack of solvents in it
just keep an eye on it over waterborne. Some of the sikkens guys were having the delam issues with the faster clear after it got stone chips[quote=”jimmo” post=23940]I found that learning to play gets you laid alot, sry…that’s all i can contribute.[/quote]
you found this out or is it just hearsay :p :rofl :rofl