brandon dingwell
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with dupont and ppg i had good luck by cutting the color 50/50 with clear base on the last coat. also helped with the blends on those tough colors
[b]1BadAction wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote] For a 90s chevy? [/quote]I’d rather put my time and money into a 90s chevy truck (or 90s ford truck) than a rustang. :lol1[/quote]
I think i like this guy already :rofl :rofl :roflmy jobber had a spray can thing kinda like that just to darken the color. dont remember who made it as i never tried any. was really skeptical of it
Well got this on the run now :whistle:
[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/IMG_0591.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/IMG_0594.jpg[/IMG]
a picture of my intake filters 😉
[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/IMG_0595.jpg[/IMG]
the money shot :cheers
[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/IMG_0596.jpg[/IMG]
just paint it with a pinstripe brush and forget about the masking 😉
$63 seems a little high. is that with shop discount? Autobodytoolmart has some decent prices on stuff but its easier for me to call up my jobber. plus if theres a problem they will be there for me
i would do my filler on bare metal
not sure if the kd2000 is an epoxy or a urethane primer. if it is a DTM urethane you really dont want to be doing your filler work over it. better off doing the filler on bare metal. you should use a fiberglass reinforced filler over any welded area’s. sand with 80 then put the rage on top. final sanding of the filler should be with 180. 80 is too course to prime over unless you are using a polyester primer.
after the filler work then put on 3 coats of primer. block with 180 and reprime.
from there out your plan sounds good. the sg100 stays a little soft, i would prefer to use the uc35 over the base, sand it then tape out your flames but if you want to use the sg100 you will be ok. uc35 get pretty hard and buffed like a rock the last time i used it (that was 8 years ago) ufc35 works better for the final coats in my opinion
good luckhe can use a slow activator for a panel clear. there is no need to use and overall clear for bumpers and grills. fc 710 has a fast, med and slow activator for diff temp ranges and spray conditions as do most all brands
looks nice. and who did you have paint that :pcorn: :pcorn:
photobucket
looks good :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:
he’s just doing bumpers and grills. why does he need a slow clear.
its definitely not solvent pop. and for what you are doing the dc3000 is an excellent clear.
dont mask to prevent overspray from getting on the car…. mask to keep dirt from coming off the car 😉