Jayson Munro
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Put your first coat on wet like clear coat or single stage,second coat is a medium.Third coat is a drop coat,drop your air pressure about 2 psi and extend your spray distance 12-18 inches away(I know weird) and that is all there is to it.Make sure each coat is dry befor you put the next one on.
Compared to sikkens and PPG clears it was very thin,I mixed it 2:1 with no reducer.The hardener was the normal temp (medium) high solids,I don’t have the number off hand.It just wasn’t what I was used to using and I was asked to demo the stuff on this old chevelle.We don’t have a basf store around our city so I don’t plan on using there products anytime soon.
Why do you like it so much Jimmo? It had a nice gloss and it was easy to spray but I found it to be very thin and very slow to dry.It was easy to spray and looks like it would be very easy to run(I didn’t get any ),it was not like the glaso clears I used back in the 80’s.It’s been 8 years since I used basf,the last time I sprayed it I worked at a shop for a year using diamont and dc92 clear.
Still trying to figure this out,I used glaso all the way through.Used the 923-109 clear on this one didn’t care for it.Used a new repro hood and fender and a couple of rust patches in the quarters.The car had 56,000 original miles and factory paint,the stripes are free hand by the way.
I’m doing another chevelle this weekend,it will be autumn gold with black stripes.I could post some pics of regular crash painting but those jobs aren’t as cool as the old muscle cars.That is the outer edge of a small rim that I use to keep my hose from getting caught,one on each end.I like ss for solid colors especially black and red,they look deeper than bc/cc.Sikkens has no more SS(autocryl) so we use U-tech 3.8,it is very high quality not like omni or a cheap line.
Nice job Ryan,they look pretty smooth.VW and volvo have some of the better factory paint jobs.I guessing you are an Iwata fan by chance?
Chrysler by far has the thickest and most brittle ecoat on their vehicles.Are you a one man show ding?
The acid in the etch can lift the feather edge of the filler.Same with paint,the factory base coat is not catalysed (sp) so it can lift or ring.I know that many people do it and will disagree with me but I don’t put body filler over paint for that reason.Epoxy is the way to go if you have the time far superior to etch IMHO.
Nice job Ding,I bet the panels you painted are smoother than the rest of the car:) Are you using a sata rp or sata rp 3000 for clear?What clear are you using and what tip1.2??
Hi Charlie,I’m 4 hrs south of you in Lethbridge,the shop I work at is 10 mins out in a small town called coaldale.I’m also a sikkens user for 7 years straight,know that stuff inside and out.