Jayson Munro
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[quote=”614Paintworx” post=33523]Im not sure how those cycle times are possible unless youre spraying in a freezer…… I shot a video today in a former envirobase shop that we just landed and painted a white Avalon code 070 tri coat. New hood, bumper, rt fender, blended rt door blend lt fender and blend rt a pillar. From sealer to ready for clear was 31 minutes. Using ds40 white tinted sealer.I’ll edit the video and upload asap[/quote]
I can do dry times like that with autowave all day long,just saying :p
[quote=”hating-painting” post=33517]Retro fitting your cross flow with a air make up unit would probably be the cheapest route.[/quote]
That is a good option but think of the revenue you can gain with 2 booths,I would keep the old cross flow.Heck if you are going to buck up for an air make up unit I would definately pressurize it,much too valuable for priming.
Matrix AG40(autoglass) is far from shit and much better than any of the shopline/omni crap.I am not a matrix guy at all but have used plenty of this clear and it holds up well,has excellent gloss and chip resistance.
In a word…no,you can’t polish something and make it more dull.what you need to do is experiment with a single stage black with different percentages of flattening agent to get the desired gloss.
Sikkens colorbuild works fine for me,it is too much work to make your primer perfect with no burn thrus with 600.Sealer creep does suck but they all do it,I never had good luck with 3m foam tape it always leaves residue behind.I have had good luck with transition tape using two strips and removing one right after sealer which allows the base and clear to go in further.It really depends what end result you are after,the best way is to paint in pieces for no paint lines.
I don’t see why not…..Im not sure what you are going to use for a sealer,the last time I used a ppg sealer it was k36 mixed as one.I wouldn’t use any of the dplf epoxies as a sealer,they kind of suck and you will get dieback.
man you are a sucker for punishment,if you already have it sanded to 400 just seal and paint.Not sure why so many people think sealer is bad,if you think it is going to add more texture to your job its not,todays sealers go on super thin and texture free.But hey if you want to sand that car 3 more times knock your self out :p
Hope it saves you some time,you should be fine with 400 wet as long as you seal before paint.I wouldn’t use dbc over 400,you will see scratches.
I have been around satas since the late 80’s and agree with Ding.I have a sata jet 90 that is 24 years old and a sata rp that is 14 years old,both of them have original seals(teflon by the way that are tough)and nozzle sets.Both of these guns have been used daily and still spray great.Satas are a reliable workhorse and you get what you pay for,lots of people hate on them for the price but you can’t beat them for reliability.
Whats your point?This topic has been beat to death,many experienced guys have expressed their opinions on NOT basing right over it.It could take up to 5-10 years or 6 months until you see issues,you never know.
[quote=”jim” post=33399]I understand that evercoat (slick sand) says that it can be directly topcoated over, but however me being in a Standox waranty aproved shop, My waranty would be void in doing this, since it is not a recomended substrate. I am surprised that this is a common practice and you guys are having good success with it. I use Slick sand and Feather fill on all my restos but always spray a 2k primer over it for finish sanding.[/quote]
Thats the way it should be done Jim :cheers
Hmmm 2 polyester products hardened by a peroxide hardener,sounds similar too me.Point is do what you want your going to anyway 😉
I meant to knock down the base coat edge before clear,don’t scuff the glue :p If you change to the purple that will cure the adhessive transfer.
How about YOU just call your ppg 1-800 tech line,I have never heard of any paint company saying its ok.your warranty will also be void since you have stepped out of the PPG system.Think about it,its no different than baseing right over wetsanded bondo,you wouldn’t do that right :stoned
Don’t mix base with clear,some bases are polyester,acrylic etc so its not going to work with all of them.For the record no paint manufacturer is going to give you the green light to do it either.Doing art work or airbrushing on small parts is one thing but on the exterior of a vehicle put in the elements is asking for a failure.You would be better off using a clear basecoat binder(dbc500)to tint or make a candy.