Jim Herman
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I have to agree with pnlbtr4life…..
I spent a whole lot of money to do that type of repair, and you may be in over your head.
When it is all said and done, two people will suffer.
JMT’s
JimLooks pretty good, and very precise. It usually looks like I used a chainsaw to trim them when I make one fit,lol,
The bedside looks great, but the countryside is amazing. I couldn’t imagine walking out of the shop and seeing that view.
When you get most of your bodywork done, flip it upside down and pour about a half cup of resin through a 1/2 inch whole and let it sit. For some reason it helps even out heat so you don’t see a splice line so bad in the sun. Trust me, I never throw a spoiler away. They are all “universal”, LOL!
Looks great, Ding. I have to agree with pnlbtr in that I would change to collision repair. Other than that…Nice! Maybe make it a little smaller,lol!
I’ve never been a big believer in yellow page advertising for collision repair on a big scale, but I feel you should have some presence. No need to over do it, though.
Collision repair is a little different than the average business in terms of phone book advertising, and what to expect from it.
The consumer that is looking for say, flower delivery, will look in the phone book and likely pick the business that has the largest most colorful ad, believing that flower shop to be the best, and their ad is basically their storefront, for you just call and order and pay over the phone.
Collision repair differs in the fact that most consumers already have a shop in mind, be it an insurer referral, a referral from a satisfied friend, or even remember the name of the shop from another form of advertising, but just do not know the phone number.
For that reason, when a consumer goes to the phone book they are not just looking for any shop, they are usually looking for a specific shop.Very few people have a wreck and run home to flip through the phone book to determine which shop to go to.
With that in mind, your yellow page ad should feature your shop name in the largest print available for the block size, and I also would suggest in reverse print, to make it pop out. No need to go hog wild and list every single thing you do, or have half a page, just simply the name and phone number, and maybe your slogan if you have one (another topic).
You basically want them to flip to the bodyshop section and see your name pop out at them. It doesn’t have to be a big ad, either. I have seen many shop listings have so much information on them, that you just glance over the name, or actually have to look for it.
Your yellow page ad is really just a small marketing tool to help people that have heard of your name get ahold of you fast. You can tie it in with other forms of advertising, such as radio, and as long as they remember your name, you can state “find us fast in the yellow pages”. It would be especially helpful in that instance, for most people driving can’t write down a phone number, but can easily get it.
My overall opinion is that yellow page advertising is not the best form of advertising when compared dollar to dollar with other forms of media. Perhaps a necessary evil, that should be used in conjunction with other advertising, and not depended upon as a “stand alone”, and not a majority of your advertising budget.
Looks great, Ding. Can’t get much slicker than that. Just out of curiousity, which color did you do first.
Hey Ding,
Be sure to check on shipping. I bought some gas tank sealer for an obsolete gas tank quite a while ago, and they for got to mention that hazardous shipping was about 10 times more.
It wasn’t from that company, though. Just keep shipping in mind, and ask just to make sure.
Jim
Thanks guys.
The thing I like here is you don’t have people calling each other idiots, or just generally disrupting for the sake of being an ass. I know I get carried away sometimes myself, so I’ll try to keep it in an educational format.
I may go ahead and change my name to Crazy bastard from Ohio, though. It’s kind of “catchy”, LOL!
What you are running into MG, is the same thing hundreds of shops run into everyday. Basically the insurer is driving a rock between yourself, and the consumer. On one hand, you have this customer, and on the other hand, your ability to do the right thing is being hampered by the policy of which the shop is not actually part of. It’s tough to walk that fine line.
I really enjoy this sight, but it seems more of a technichal, or “friend” type of forum, so I am reluctant to provide too much input. I enjoy seeing others work,(Stone is an airbrush magician) and hearing about the types of materials people use,(bondomerchant has me lookin’) and their favorite brand of beer. (Bud bottles, free ones even better) The last thing I want to be known as, is “the crazy bastard from Ohio”, but hey, I’m a tell it like it is type of person.
That being said, here goes nothing.
You know, it just doesn’t seem good enough to be the best bodyshop anymore. You have alot of hats to wear, as a collision repairer. You have to be good at your craft, an expert salesman, completely understand and know the consumers contract of insurance, as well as learn alot of law that most lawyers aren’t even aware of. But if you do that, life will get alot easier.
I’m going to speak in generalities, for things may differ a little from state to state, and if you are in Canada, we’re both screwed, for I don’t know jack about their regulations, LOL!
When the consumer files the claim, the insurer has the option to repair or replace. Once they decide to repair, or write a repair estimate, that’s it. At that point, the cost of the claim is the final bill of the repair cost.
The insurer can write an estimate for whatever they want. They can decide to cover the car with “Cheez-wiz”, but unless you are gullable enough to do it, it matters little. It goes back to the cost of repair, not what they think the cost will be.
I honestly can’t imagine what a car that has $2200 in PDR damage looks like, but I would venture to say it would probably cost about $5000, or better, to fix it right.
I would break out my SF proof sources, in which they state they don’t do PDR on previously repaired panels, and the other one that states they do not condone drilling of access holes or the disruption of factory corrosion protection. As far as glass chips, the burden of proof is on the insurer, and since you have recently seen the car…well.
I know the consumer is dealing with Erie, but remember SF generally sets the rules for those that obey. If I was an Erie customer, I’d be pissed that I wouldn’t have such a problem with SF. (hint, hint)
And finally, I am glad this is not a censored sight, for you have to on occasion say fuck it, you as a customer are so retarded, that there is nothing I can do to help you. Unfortunatly, that is alot of the consuming public, LOL!
Remember, “Authorization to Repair”. It will always make you money.
Sincerely,
Crazy bastard from Ohio, AKA Jim
By the way, unless otherwise asked, this is my last serious post.
On second thought, don’t bother looking on the website. It must be why the magazine cost so much. Only 2 ad for Lemans, LOL!
Anyway, good luck, and let us know what you come up with.
Jim
Gin, I have been a dealer for many years. I know what they are trying to do, and know you have to suffer in the shop.
Mr. GQ sold a red Savana, but you only had a white one.
Changing the color on a manufacturer title is going to absolutely kill the value of that vehicle.
Tell Mr. pleated pants “uhh oh, better get Maaco”, for that is the main objective.
Nothing I would ever do as a dealer principle, or a shop owner. Sounds like stupid, to me.
Jim
Speaking of “tighter than bark on a tree” car dealers, namely me, I’ve been using Rubber Seal clear on some older stuff, and can’t believe how much I like it. That, comming from a guy that would never mix and match product line.
I’ve used Norton for along time, and really appreciated it more when they were out of it and sent me 3M gold instead. I used about 5 sheets of it, and sent it back. The 3M green is good, but it’s the same color of money, and not THAT good.
Well, let me put it like this. You can walk across a frozen lake, but you won’t know if you made it til you get to the other side. I hope that clears it up for you, LOL!
Anyway, you can probably get away with going over the primer, but I don’t, with the exception of EZ sand, or simular product.
I’m one of those dinasaurs that metal finish nearly every high end thing, so I would work the panel, apply all-metal as needed, then DP. Go back and prime, block, and maybe putty in a couple places, and re-prime. I’m with Jimmo, I wouldn’t do a major amount of plastic work over a U primer on something I had to stand behind for a long time.
If it is a “used car” for a dealer, it’s OK to apply bondo directly over the 2 inch masking tape, LOL!
Ah… good ole’ betterment. Another insurer scam to bilk consumers out of millions of dollars in unpaid claims.
Technically, a betterment deduction would be due to an increase in value of the vehicle as a result of the repair. I would think that rarely happens, especially from an exhaust repair.
I can see the for-sale ad….”2007 Kia Sportage, been rear ended, has new tail pipe, only asking 10% over book value with new tail pipe”.
One thing I liked about betterment was it meant they must also acknowledge diminished value. Help the consumer get paid full repair cost, plus a few hundred bucks in their pocket, and you won’t see betterment thrown around nearly as much.
Arm the consumer with a little knowledge, and let them have at it. Most get ticked when they find out how they are about to get shafted, and don’t mind making a couple of phone calls.
The main thing is for the shop not to eat the cost of a betterment. That’s what they are counting on, and will open pandoras box. Remember, the insurer does not owe the shop anything.
Jmt’s,
Jim