don prcotor
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[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]adpro = Adhesion Promoter primarily designed for raw plastics.[/quote]yeah i got it.
i do use ppg’s one choice and since they came out with it, and it’s the only way ppg will warranty raw covers. trust me. i wound not paint a raw bumper with out useing some kind of adpro.. found out a long time ago, even if you sand it with 180, it will come off.[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]im not a production shop. i know most of my customers well and get to see
my own jobs regulary. In a fast paced production shop, you probably never get
to chat with the owners nor see your own work regulary…im sure you take pride in your work. otherwise you wouldn’t be here like the rest
of us[/quote] thank you. i do take pride in my work. it’s just i know my products. and i know what i can do, and what i can’t. yes we are a production shop, it has it’s pros and cons, and it’s very stressfull. especially when your on programs to make sure dinner gets put on the table.[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]lild, please seal e-coat before basing and just use adpro for raw covers. :)[/quote]
well i got to now. due to useing enviro base. and what the hell is adpro?we warranty our work for a lifetime too. we have to. and so does ppg. i’ve never called them for a problem that i have short cutted. one reason is because i’ve never had one. i’ve been doing this, this way for 12yrs now. i’ve never had a car come back for rock chips. or paint peeling. i do take pride in my work. it’s hard to prove that i’m wrong, when i’ve done it for so long, and you’ve never tried it.
and as for the factory. i may be wrong, but are they not useing the same things were useing? plus, rock chips are ungaruanteeable. your talking about a projectal that flies twice as fast as it is thrown. do you know any glass comp. guranteeing their windsheilds againt rockchips?
and yes 15-20 mins. will last many, many yrs. plus people now adays don’t keep cars that long anymore.really, your really concern about rock chips. question. how many cars have you repaired with oem factory, never been refinished before, rock chips all across the front end? with due respect. i will not say that i can guarantee rocks. if the factory can not. why should i. plus they put all the undercoats as soon and the parts and covers come off the molds. my jobers tell me the same thing. the question i ask them is this. how many times have i called you about rocks chiping the paint on a car i refinshed? his answer. 0.
15 to 20 mins..
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt base over a raw bumper that just had adhesion promoter on it….ever.
why not just base over sanded e-coat also.
show me a tech sheet from a major paint manufacturer that says just to base over adhesion promoter. Bulldog may say it’s ok but bulldog isn’t warrantying my paint either.
At least I know when it’s done the proper way it will never come back to bite me in the ***
:pcorn:[/quote] i thought bulldog has a gaurntee on the lable.
plus i do base over e-coat. it’s primer sand it well and base will stick.
here’s what you ask for.
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=beaa9548-e3a5-4232-8422-2ccad827489a
after opeing the link, click on english, then open. after it opens, scroll all the way down. to the chart system.[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]you should always seal bumper covers. especially raw. you need a good foundation to lay that base on and adhesion promoter just isnt it.[/quote]
i completly agree with you. you should always seal.
but i have done plenty of them to prove you wrong.[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]The shop I am at now uses the PPG sponges…But before here I usually took a gray or gold scotch brite pad with plastic prep paste (whatever brand floats your boat) and abraded/cleaned it as well as I could, particularly in the cracks. I then would use the paint manufacturers products.
With DuPont, I would blow the bumper dry, then wipe it with the plas-stick cleaner (2319s or 2320s) to aid in adhesion and reduce static. Then tack, apply the Plas-stick adhesion promoter (2330s), 1 coat of sealer then topcoat.
With PPG I would dry the bumper, use the Global plastic cleaner (D846), tack, apply the Global adhesion promoter (D820) then apply 1-2 coats of flexible primer/sealer (which they no longer sell). Then topcoat.
Sherwin Williams is basically the same. This is the process I use, it has been very successful for me. I prefer the wet on wet process as opposed to applying a primer surfacer since I only want to prep it once. With that said, I am very picky about accepting new raw plastic bumpers/parts.[/quote]
i like the wet on wet process too. i’ve found that on some you can skip the sealer and go right to it. again ppg’s sponge thing. expect toy. covers. i have to seal. the bigest thing with new covers, they always have some damage to fix. i hate new raw bumpers.i remember about 10 yrs ago. when comps. began to send them raw, and how it was a very troublesome thing to get paint to stick to them. you had know what kind of plastic it was, how to test it. so on and so on.
i had the same problem with bulldog in the can. so i buy it in gallon and use it in the gun, and add some to base. but bulldog won’t work with ppg’s primers or sealers. i didn’t find out untill the sealer blistered on me. i do use ppg’s raw plastic prep system now. we bill insurance comps. for it. before they came out with it. at the training center, they told us to use the dx103 multiprep, wipe the bumper, dry, then soak a scotch brite pad in it and scuff the cover, rinse with warm water mixed with tide, dry off, and wipe in one direction with the dx again, then finish off with the 801 plastic adhesion. it worked pretty well.
i like useing the 3m clear rocker guard in a spray can. but i cheat some times. i use undercoating. wait 15 mins. and then go to painting. :whistle:
yeah you got to make sure your prep work is done. find out if the clear you use is compatbale with a booth. clears can be very tempermental when it comes to bake temps and time. as for the solvent pop a few things i can think of. too heavy, too much product from start to finish, to much time or lack of time inbetween coats of clear. you need to find out how much of a temp drop your getting in the booth. like mine has a 30 degree drop. like i set the dial at 160, car temp is 130.
let me make my self clear. i don’t have a prblem with laying down clear with my sata rp 3000. i don’t choke the gun either, the trigger is set to wide open. i like a 8″ fan pattern spray not a foot and half. and i like going a little slower when clearing. it may be just me. but i like to look at my self while clearing. it’s and addiction. but compared to my nr2000 and espacially my sata jet 90 it’s a little slower, due to psi. but that’s just me. now if you want to talk about spraying fast, try enviro base.
mequirers, makes a overspray removal clay bar.
isn’t that the truth.