MoCoke
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well it sort of flows out okay, but needs to be sanded, you can wet sand it pretty nicely after about a half hour and its a lot cheaper then these aerosal primers. there is one company now that i think about it called spray max which does make a 2k aerosal primer or you make it and charge it up not sure how it goes something like Rat suggested
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15531][quote=”MoCoke” post=15528][quote=”timbo” post=15526]early morning mix of epoxy sealer is the ticket… :clappy[/quote]
your still mixing, masking, spraying, cleaning the gun…throwing away unused product.[/quote]
no masking and cleaning a gun that was just used to blast a little epoxy only takes a few seconds. still faster than having to redo one from using a spray can primer. Keep it mixed up in a disposable cup. It’s pretty damn simple really.
Water won’t stick very good to bare metal. The manufactuers say not to put spray can primers or etch underneath. Sounds like there are only a few options there guys. Lets not major in a minor. I know why Jimmo was asking because mixing a little sealer for every job just for a couple little burn throughs is wasteful and time consuming. If your not production painting it doesn’t matter.
I’m not one to put something underneath my base that they tell me not too. Just because it may work in the short term and leave the shop doesn’t mean that it will last out on the road. Sh!t I can not sand a car before painting it and get it to leave the shop, but that doesn’t mean I did a good job on it or it will last.
Also just because something hasn’t burned you yet doesn’t mean that it won’t. What if say in two years all the jobs start coming back, how big of a fuking mess would that be. The paint companies give you guidelines for a reason. It’s not so they sell more sealer, it’s to give you a repair that lasts.
I’m sure most companies will end up coming out with a 1K product for use under waterborne basecoat but as of now most don’t. If I’m not mistaken I think there are some in Europe as Paintpot was saying.[/quote]
no no im totally against using any aerosol primer or paint except weld thru primer. i suggested using sherwin williams squeegee prime for that reason. i use it on break thrus and to prime small areas. similar to the roll it primer craze years ago but less mess and easier to use. dont know why its not very popular yet but its such a time and material saver.
[quote=”timbo” post=15526]early morning mix of epoxy sealer is the ticket… :clappy[/quote]
your still mixing, masking, spraying, cleaning the gun…throwing away unused product.
and me i just bust my as$ :deadhorse day and night for free :wak
get a 7″ dewalt angle grinder/samder for the large areas. or, if your compressor is big enough, get a chicago pneumatic angle grinder. just as effective as the dewalt but a lot lighter in weight.
[quote=”timbo” post=15458][quote=”MoCoke” post=15455]check out USC[/quote]
USC what…??lol check out USC…Morton 40-1 glamour clear. very cheap price, excellent product.
check out USC
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15415][quote=”MoCoke” post=15411]are you using the G3 compound correctly? you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first. i was using farecla for a while and was capable of removing 1500 grit with it so i dont understand why 2000 grit isnt removable. also make sure you shake the compound bottle before use in case anything settled to the bottom.[/quote]
Just because you can remove P1500 scratches from one clearcoat doesn’t mean that it works for all. At work I use Sikkens 250 and Lesonal pro-air out in the shop. I could P1500 wet the Lesonal and buff it out easily. The sikkens 250 if I had to buff out P1500 scratches it would take me forever. Spies and Standox clears aren’t too bad to buff cratches out of but I wouldn’t want to go any coarser than P2000. I have been using the Mirka 2000 and 4000 and like it.
I usually wetted down the G3 but I would hit it first without water and halfway through my buffing cycle I would give it a spritz.[/quote]
thats true i kinda forgot some clears are more difficult to buff than others. as far as lubricating the panel goes, thats just the way farecla recommends it. it gets messy so i stopped using farecla for that reason.
i use sherwin williams spreadable primer surfacer. comes in a tube similar to adhesives, comes with a static mixing tube and all u do is spread it. no mixing. no masking. and its 2k. pretty cheap as well i think i pay like less then 6.00 per tube.
are you using the G3 compound correctly? you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first. i was using farecla for a while and was capable of removing 1500 grit with it so i dont understand why 2000 grit isnt removable. also make sure you shake the compound bottle before use in case anything settled to the bottom.
all the major brands have their own “economy” line up which sometimes sucks sometimes works. as far as shopping for value, i think norton is great. just to give u a comparison, 6″ 3m 3000 grit trizac goes for about 60 bucks around here, under norton it goes for a little less then 30 and i think the norton lasts a bit longer too. Ben brought up a good point about using the velcro paper since good paper in general is expensive and you can always remove it and store it for later use if you didnt completely use it up.
using hookit paper is a must in my opinion for finer grit like 400 and above. in my shop im constantly trying new materials and always looking for a better value
[quote=”bobwires” post=15337][quote=”Ben” post=15323]With painting over the old paint and the grey primer, a value-shaded sealer would have helped tremendously.[/quote]
I got a gallon of martin senour sealer a couple years ago when I was starting my first paint job, but it’s pretty dark gray. almost black. Do you have to have some special sealer ‘base’ that you add black tint to to get the right value?[/quote]
you just need a tintable sealer or primer. i think the maximum amount of tint is 10%. they save lots of time and material
the “professional bodymen” who hang outside my local autozone can get that fixed for you for 40 bucks while you shop. no lie.
:welc looks good 😉 what materials/guns did you use?
i used to think debeer was more expensive than ppg, but a pint of debeer color goes farther than a pint of dbc, almost 1.5 times as far and matches better. as far as spending on materials goes, i go with what works, i dont fall victim to brand names. its like buying brand name drugs when the generic is a fraction of the price