MoCoke
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when ur done spraying, use one of these bottles to squirt thinner into the fluid passage and around the gun, then dismantle it and with a brush clean every part and reassemble. they save lots of thinner, so youll only use up a few ounces of thinner to clean your gun. and get a workbench!
http://www.tcpglobal.com/images/devdpc-8.jpg
havent herd of the gun that heats up, but how did it get warm? power supply? chemically like a chemical reaction when air passes through it? i was at a fusor clinic a month and half ago and there was a compressed air heater that gets hooked up to the compressor and its supposed to heat the air so the paint flashes quicker. the company said theyd set it up in your shop for a week so u can try it for yourself and they have several differnt models for higher cfm
thats an amazing deal! how did u come across it? where did u look? and where can i find one??
apparently you arent the only one masking fuel doors when painting a quarter panel :p what are you gonna do with this car? i woulda sold the customer on a complete paint job, even if its a cheapo
no maaco in Alaska?? :hunt :rofl
[quote=”admin” post=15160]I’ve experienced the same thing with 5600, as a production clear I wouldn’t expect the same results as a regular clear. They’ve got a newer production clear DC5120 that seems to be a bit better. On the subject of cheap clears, one of the best jobs I did was my brothers truck with a local off the truck product called “champion”. It didn’t require buffing and its held up great over the years. I’ve got great results with the cheap stuff too, I think your mostly paying for warranty with the high end stuff. If you get a bad hardener and f’k up 10 jobs because of it BASF would pay the bill where champion would tell you to eat s***..lol.. It actually happend to my old man at another shop he ran 10 years ago, BASF paid him about $10,000 to redo the jobs.[/quote]
very true. i think i know what champion clear your talking about and i think its just relabeled valspar products.
people, people, if you want an inexpensive clear, try USC Morton 40-1 glamour clear. its an AMTec clear but literally half the price. i think im somewhere into my second or third year of using it and i couldnt be happier. i service a few of the vehicles i used it on on a regular basis and they still look like theyre freshly painted. :wak
lmfao @ stone
cleaning ur gun with lacquer thinner wont cause them, and throw away the fisheye additive. i believe your final wipe down is playing a big role in your problem. use a quality wax and grease remover. make sure to wipe it dry and do not let it evaporate on the surface. also make sure the cloth you use to wipe it on is different from the one you wipe off with. (both being clean and new) finally you may want to use a water based w&g remover like ammonia or alcohol and let it dry completely.
make sure to sand out the fisheyes before retrying, and since your color is black, spray your entire bumper in color. its much easier to repair problems before clearing.
when you spray your clear, spray the entire bumper in even coats, not just the repair area.
its impossible to spray at anything below 60 and expect good results. my shop isnt insulatd so when i have a complete to do i usually end up spraying at the end of the day (reason why i end up spraying after midnight at times) when the shop heater finally gets the place warm enough. forget the all the solvent pop, peeling issues, and orange peel. you’ll get runs! and if you dont get runs its because you held your gun too far in fear of getting runs which means ur finish will look like a$$!
i believe the optimal temp you wanna be spraying at is 70 or 75 degrees Fahrenheit
[quote=”Ben” post=15102]I use the 3m blocks (which are hard) as well as the couple of soft foam 3M blocks[/quote]
me 2, very ergonomic and easy to use
wow thats awesome, i always wondered about the effectiveness of those shop tour ads, i think you should brand it, a refinish network shop.
now i get it! :weights
i dont get it?
looks great! i love seein u guys actually repair panels and not always replace em
u can get away with the cheap brands but ull probably end up doubling ur buffing time and material consumption. once i got a good gun i wanted to slap myself for not having one sooner
