Simon Richards
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Thanks Wydir.
PPG must list the tinters with different codes in the ‘states, because my PPG Deltron tinters start with ‘D’, ie. ‘D895 – Colour Blender’, ‘D740 – Black’ etc
Not sure though, because I found this US site that lists Deltron with D codes like I have:
[url]http://usautopaint.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/ppgglobal.htm[/url]
The Blue and Violet…are they solids or transparents?
How soon after painting/baking are you denibbing and polishing? Even though most data sheets say you can polish within 2-3 hours after baking, you should leave the car to the next day before denibbing and polishing. I often give the car two bakes.
I used to use Total and G3, then went on to G6 and am now using a product called ‘Juice’ which I am told is rebadged/private label Menzerna. I like it a lot, and am using an orange foam pad with it.
Farecla sent out a bulletin earlier this year that suggested you need to wait at least two hours after denibbing [i]before [/i]you start any compounding. The clear is still de-gassing and this is why it goes hazy after polishing if you do it right away. If it’s cold, you should wait even longer. You could denib the same day the car was painted, and then compound and polish the next day.
Also, I never apply any wax to fresh paint. It will seal the clear and not allow it to properly degas. PPG also suggest in their product handbook that you don’t apply any wax until 90 days have passed. I think that’s a little extreme, but I recommend to my customers to wait at least 30 days before waxing.
YMMV.
Thanks for the tips guys.
I did cut the sealer from the roof skin, but it has no effect and the dents remained. So, to cut these shallow dents out, I softly long blocked the roof back with 180 and finished with 240 on the DA with an interface pad (using even, but light pressure). I just finished spraying 3 coats of PPG D8046 (6:1:1) HS High Build primer (spot) and am letting it air dry overnight.
Will block that back with 240 and see how flat she is. If not, I’ll repeat the process with another couple coats of 8046. I should have a total of 350-450 microns of material thickness once I’ve finished re-painting the roof. While that thickness is not ideal, it will work and it will last.
Thanks for the help and advice guys! Will report back once the roof is repainted.
Cheers,
SimeLooks great Bondo. :rock
Ya got any before pics by chance?
Ben, the polyester was baked, but the Car System TDS says that yes you can bake the polyester. 30 minutes at 60 deg C I recall.
Brad, thanks for the tip re cutting the adhesive. I will try that first.
Will let you all know how it turns out.
Cheers,
SimeAnytime! You’re welcome. 😉
You still may not have enough CFM. What size air line are you running and what PSI are you getting into the gun?
How much are you reducing the clear, and are you using the suitable hardener and reducer for the temperature?
This may help:
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfxvlThHEJQ&feature=related]How to paint correctly[/url]
You can also look on youtube for other ‘how to paint a car’ videos. Keep in mind that the guys who are working really fast over the panels are likely using Sata 3000 RP’s. You won’t be able to work that fast with a Devilbiss!
Thanks for the clarification Jim.
Out of interest, you mentioned that you lay down four coats (of your clear) in the initial coating. For higher end work, I’m using PPG D8210 HS clear (3:1:1) and the recommended application is 1 medium, followed by 1 full wet coat.
Obviously I’m not going to have the same film build with 2 coats compared to your 4. Do you see any issue in still using a 400 dry with only 2 coats, or should I step up to a 500 or 600 dry?
On your second clear application, how many coats are you applying, and are you over-reducing in this instance?
Cheers,
SimeI had a Devlibiss SGK 1.8 and although it sprayed nice, it didn’t like abuse.
For quite a while I was using a Devilbiss PRi 1.8. Also sprayed nicely.
I have recently purchased an Iwata/Air Gunsa AZ3 HTE2 1.8. While it’s a nice gun and well built, I don’t like the way it sprays. Even though I’ve followed the correct material mix and am using the recommended gun pressure, it sprays too peely for me. And it doesn’t seem to matter what I do to adjust the gun settings to try and dial it out. I never had the problem with the Devilbiss PRi or SGK.
Likely that I am going to sell it and get a Sata, a PRi or a GTi Pro primer gun.
I’m not familiar with R-MAP, but I’ve never had a problem spraying adpro over exosed PPE (and the surrounding rub through area). Both PPG D820 adpro and K&H 1k adpro (compatible with 2k).
The thing to know is to spray a light coat and adhere to the recommended flash off time. Don’t hose it on.
Sorry to revive an old thread….
…are you talking about using the p400 wet with a rubber backing block, or using the p400 dry (with perhaps a 6″ DA)?
Cheers,
SimeRe blending the rear quarter panel, it will be an ‘edge to edge’ clear, but one of two things will need to happen:
1. If the roof rail (A pillar, Cant Rail and C pillar) are separated from the roof by a channel line with a moulding, then the refinisher would be best to clear that whole roof rail section (to the base of the A pillar).
2.If the C pillar runs into the roof with no break line, the refinisher will need to initiate a fade out blend of the clear, so it melts into the existing clearcoat. The blend will finish somewhere around 70-80% towards the top of the C pillar.
Technically, option 2 is not a true edge to edge repair, however there is no other option in this instance other than to paint the entire roof, opposing roof rail and opposing rear quarter. Much easier, cheaper and more practical to do a fade out blend!
Cheers,
SimeWhat compressor do you have (size and horsepower)? How long is your air supply line? Sounds like you don’t have enough CFM (air flow).
Many yonks ago when I used to refinish parts at home, I had a similar problem. The compressor (2.5hp/40 litre) was ok for small parts, but didn’t have the balls to do a hood or door.
In my shop, my 10hp/340litre compressor doesn’t have that problem! 😉
With this compressor, I am running Devilbiss GTI Pro’s. On the clear gun with a 1.3mm and T2 tip, I am running 29-32psi into the gun, 5.5 turns out on the fluid and a quarter turn in on the fan. Spraying at approx. 5-6″ to the surface at a medium speed pass, overlapping each pass by 50%. I can control the finish (peel) by my speed and the reduction of the material.
I’ve been painting for 8 years now and still get a run every now and again. A 20 year+ experienced Porsche/Audi/Lexus painter said to me once that if a painter doesn’t get a run, he/she’s not trying hard enough!
Painting is all about practice. And it does take quite a while to get good.
Cheers,
SimeThany you muchly.
Prior to signing up, I had been lurking for a while. Looks like a great forum with excellent info and great people.
Cheers,
Sime