Richard
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No doubt, I do a lot of leading. And in that situation… Out of the question…
Especially around rust… tinning butter hates rust. Absolutely hates the stuff… The acids basically don’t do anything to it.
And it wouldn’t stick to it if you begged it to.Buy a non vinyl top donor for 200 bucks and hack the roof off of that…
I know, I know I always have a problem with always doing things right. 😉I get too tired of fixing stuff that hacks feel the need to destroy. 😆
Well that would be the easy and fast way out anyways…
You could always weld a hundred and thirty patches into it.I mean whatever works for you. 😆
Actually these years need a larger Rocker to door gap because the rocker is at an upward angle. Meaning if the rocker is up too high, or the door is too low. When opened the door will swing inward and catch the upward angle of the rocker.
I guess there isn’t much reason why I couldn’t put a bigger relief in the rocker though.
Hmm, Maybe an early mustang with a nice lower door gap. :laugh:[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Fender0007.jpg[/img]
I’ve got 7/64th rear door gaps. 0.120″ No room for adjustment.
Not to change the subject.
But most all you guys mix in house.
What kind of costs, and requirements are there in become an in house mixer?Do the manufactures loan/lease you the mixing equipment and you buy the toners outright.
Do you buy everything outright?
Is it you have to use so much product per month/year?Are there classes required?
What kind of classes?It seems to be getting harder and harder to come up with the products I prefer.
And I was just a little curious for the future what kind of hoops I’m going to have to jump through to become an in house mixer. :unsure:Richard
Valspar/HOK has left me most impressed as far as price compared to coverage so far.
I also use a lot of PPG, but Price wise Valspar offers much higher quality products for the price.PPG seems to skimp on toners. Especially on their lower line products like Omni/Shop-Line
Now I generally used upper line Valspar products.
Which comparing an upper line to a economy product is like comparing apples to oranges.
But I practically paid the same for top of the line Valspar products as I did for middle/economy PPG lines.
So that is why I compare them.I wouldn’t claim Deltron is any better or worse than the Refinish Intermix stuff. But I could buy the top of the line Valspar stuff for barely over the price of Economy line PPG stuff. (Except Clears)
But I’m also a restorer.
And everyone wants the top of the line stuff. So I don’t get to try as much economy or even middle lines as I’d like.Richard
Looks good. But no eye protection? The shame. 😆
If you do the stud weld quick enough you can generally twist them off. I use a end cutter pliers (Flat face cutter) generally to work around it first before I do much twisting.
Sometimes you need more grip though and you require a longer weld to get them to hang on during the beating.
At which case I usually dike the face off, and take them down with a grinder or a 80 grit disk on a high speed.
If I happen to put a hole, I’ll just weld it shut.
After awhile you’ll get used to how long your stud weld needs to be for the right job.
You’ll generally know rather you need to twist or dike and grind during removal though.There is a very fine line between not enough, and too long.
A lot of shops suggest they all be diked off and taken down with a sanding disk.
Just because if you put a hole it increases time over just diking and grinding them all off in general.
Like they say, better safe then sorry.Richard
Aftermarkets don’t fit? Wow, you coulda fooled me… :angry:
What’s with all the swirls? Go back and finish it! :laugh:
I’ve got to highly agree. unless the Etch primer specifically states it can be used over filler work. Don’t do it…
I’ve only heard of a few that are actually claimed to be safe over fillers.
Guess I could’ve read the other post. Pnlbtr pretty much summed it up. :laugh:
Skin a door. Yes, it’s a common proceedure. but if the beam is in any way damaged they say the structure is compromised and it should be replaced.
Richard
How’s that? 😛
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/100_1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/100_2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/100_3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/100_4.jpg[/img]
Still a little more tweaking, but the gap is as good as gone. (Less than 1/32nd of an inch)
Only problem is the squared edge at the bottom… (Or uh top if the car was right side up.)
There’s no way to take it out with a hammer and dolly because it runs full length, and is quite reinforced…
Not exactly sure what I’ll do there… I’d like to lead it, just because I hate putting fillers on edges, but I don’t want the heat messing everything up on the corner of that quarter…
I’ll likely just use a small amount of fiberglass reinforced filler… (It’s less than a 16th of an inch anyways.)It is fairly protected by the valance, and there is hardly and chance of anything catching that edge… And if it does it’s going to have to go through the valance first. :side:
Richard.