ryan brown
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Prime the bodywork areas. Any cut throughs use sealer on. If it is real sensitive use a quality waterborne sealer.
You only need to keep the EPA certification on hand for each gun. Go to the Devilbiss website and print them out and keep in a folder in the office. A copy in the mixing room wouldn’t hurt either.
i like it Andy! those are some real nice bikes. Pics assembled would be cool.
Well generally speaking if a car is deemed a total loss and sent to salvage, the cost of fixing is close to the cost of the vehicle. If you were going to get a good deal on parts and labor it might be a bit cheaper, if not buy a new or used one. It will be cheaper and less hassle in the end.
The only people get a deal fixing totals are the ones who do the work themselves or the guys who butcher the hell out of them and send them on the road or to another country.
I have to agree with jay, UH is a pearl black. UA is nicer looking
Energy pro is out of dust by the time I can clean a gun, how much faster do you need. I have sanded it after 40 minutes with no bake. I can think of very few times in my life where I need a clear that is buffable in 30 minutes. Unless your painting 80-100 cars a week like Andy there isn’t much need. Time management would be more beneficial.
I think Energy Pro is a good mix of fast enough without compromising looks and sprays well. It isn’t going to wet up as easily as a slower clear and won’t have the flow but I can make it look nice. Given my choice I will spray Superior all day long and just bake it.
[quote=”5LEater” post=26157][quote=”MMG” post=26151]KFT, A SATA RP 1.2 or 1.3 at 33 to 36 psi. First coat, thin wet and pretty, just barely connect the dots. If you want more peel, let it flash a little extra then spray the second coat for appearance. It flows a little during bake so you can leave some extra texture to allow for that. Also, if you use the faster combinations from your MPU you will get less flow and more texture.
BTW, an Iwata W400 LV2 1.3 at 35 psi is one bad a$$ clear gun also. Still my favorite.
Salty One:dnc[/quote]
MPU…. people actually use those? ive heard about them but never actually seen one in person.
interesting concept but I dont know how you could keep the clear/hardener from gunking up eventually[/quote]You flush it with thinner or reducer. They do work very well
Honestly Andy I have not heard much good about it. I have heard a lot of people saying it looses gloss after a few weeks to months. I have not used it personally so I can’t say for sure, but with as many people saying the same thing I would have to believe them. Maybe someone else will chime in that has seen it after a few months.
Sata RP 3000 1.3 with around 33 psi wide open material and fan turned in to get it in good shape with minimal peripheral overspray. 1st coat just closed(connect the dots) second coat wet coat. Don’t mop it on just a nice thin wet closed coat then hit it with heat. Spray close and fast.
I would agree it has to be one of if not the best clears I have used.
Looks like he did a real nice job
It is the reducer for the basecoat. yes you are supposed to mix it
That thing looks great Jayson! :cheers
I know in the Akzo line there is only one product that specifies it goes over stainless. It’s the Autoprep pre-treatment wipes. The etchs and epoxy’s state all the other steels but not stainless. To be honest I am not sure why and if it makes a difference. Might want to check the BASF sheets to see if their products are the same or not.
You’ll be fine. Easiest way to clean the inside of the nozzle is to trim down a chopstick and wrap a towel around it with thinner. The soft wood of the chopstick won’t hurt the inside of the nozzle and it will get into all the tight spots.
As long as the nozzle, needle and fluid passage are clean there will be no problems.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=25907][quote=”krjrcustom1″ post=25693] Then come back w/400wet and call it good { non-metalic job). And yes is a high end job. . Ken[/quote]
Water on poly is never good. Best bet would be to get a short wave lamp on it for 30-45 minutes.
“high end job” that statement right there should dictate what you do.[/quote]
x2 Heed this advice. You wouldn’t wetsand metal glaze, poly is the same style of product.