ryan brown
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A cool little trick to close up a hole is to weld a stud for pulling where the hole is. Keep on the trigger for a second or two extra so the pin welds onto the panel pretty good. Let it cool for a second and take a pair of side cutters and snip the stud off. Use a grinder to flatten it out and you will have no more hole. I would venture to say this method would be alot safer and less intrusive than trying to mig weld all the holes up, unless your real good with a mig, I’m not! :whistle:
It’s not spraying clear well because the aircap is designed to give coarser atomization so the basecoat lays down in the correct droplet size. Get a silver clear aircap for it and it should work better.
I would weld it up with kitty hair :blink:
[quote=”5LEater” post=20328][quote=”Ben” post=20275]Basically most mixing systems have a straight black toner. Mixing blacks are usually a weaker black (less opaque). And sometimes there are blacks that have a little hue to them (typically yellow/red) which gives the black more of a brown look in bright day light.[/quote]
What would be the difference for example of the tinters “245, 400, 744.” on autowave. I know 744 is the mixing black, but 245 and 400 look pretty much the exact same to me. learn me! :p[/quote]
744 is a mixing black. it is weaker and has a blue sidetone. You would never use it for a main toner as it won’t look very good.
400 is stronger and has a yellow side tone. It can be used for a solid black but it wont look as good as 245. It can also be used as a mixing black when a yellow side is needed.
245 is a different kind of technology than the other autowave toners. it is ground finer and will be a deeper darker black. I think it was made at first for Toyota 202 black, but is used in most straight blacks now.
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=20315]I have had the chance to use the new 4000 HVLP 1.4. I sparyed two covers in and a bedside in autobase plus, one with my 3000 HVLP 1.3 and the other with the 4000, They sprayed real similar, only the 4000 atomized a toch better and at a lower pressure than my 3000. My clear looked better over the job done with the 4000. I used the 4000 for clear (Pro air) and it is slow but it does a good job. I just cant get my 3000 to spray clear at all so I didnt even try. I used a 3000 RP 1.3 and I thought the 4000 HVLP worked better for me. Still not as good as my LPH400LV4 but the 4000 HLVP is a nice gun.[/quote]
Pro Air almost has to have a 1.4. I never got good results with any 1.3.
Great looking job Mac! :cheers
If I only could have 1 cap I would pick the orange myself. It does a pretty good job with clear and a very good job with basecoat. The silver is crap for base imo. the purple is very nice for metallics but is kinda funky to spray with as it has a very limited sweet spot. You can get the job done with the silver but I feel it falls short if you have to spray a difficult metallic. I also feel a 1.4 does better in the LPH.
I might even have a used LPH I would sell. :whistle:
I still use Colorbuild plus so I can’t comment on the 250. I actually do mix colored sealers somewhat often. For poor hiding colors and I can match the original ecoat color on a cut-in job.
I have not experienced any issues with solid reds.
I have heard the LV clear is an OK clear and on the fast side. I only use Superior. It is pricey to buy but goes really far. I can turn around 110-120 hours from a can of clear without trouble. Per sprayable ounce I think it is in line with any other clear. It is a dream to use also.
I’m not in Socal but I know Steve. He is a very knowledgeable rep. To me a big part of picking a paint line is support. The best line in the world will have kinks and if the rep doesn’t know how it works you are up shit creek without a paddle. You are fortunate to have him as your rep, there are a lot out there who don’t know much.
I don’t think you will have any regrets with Sikkens. I can’t think of much I would change.
Sorry to hear brian.
29 psi also.
The hvlp will work for clear but making sure your getting the proper air volume to the gun is a concern. Things like high flow couplers, pipe size, hose length and diameter and also the number of fittings all come in to play.
I bet a new Jun-Air booth with QUADS would look good in that shop! :whistle:
I don’t think the 90-2 are very good if I remember correctly. The old Sata 90 was good. I think jayson knows more about the two models.
Big congrats Nick! Looks like it will be a nice sized shop. :cheers
I agree with Joe. What he says is true, and if I could go back I would do the same as he says. Lots of easier ways to make a living.
With that said I am a believer in doing what you enjoy doing for a living. If you are good at what you do and truly care and want to be the best you will succeed at any career. If you want to be a bodyman and work hard you can make a nice living. Every shop has a guy they would not let go and that guy is taken care of.
It really depends. On the clear your spraying. The 1.3 would be more universal for clear but some clears work better with a 1.2 or a 1.4.