ryan brown
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Gerson developed the cup. Norton and Carbo buy them from Gerson and resell under their name. Price per cup the norton/gerson are cheaper. $80 list price sounds about right. Remember 3M list price is up there over $100 something.
For the same money as the 3M you can get the Sata RPS cups which beat all of them.
:welc welcome
[quote=”mountainman” post=16408]I’ve been spraying cromax for 4yrs now. It works great. have you taken any training on how it works.it sounds like you didn’t.Had a few problems with color match, nothings perfect.[/quote]
If that’s directed for me I went to the training center for it. I liked Cromax, but it had too many downfalls imo. Nobody’s color match is perfect but Cromax is pretty shitty in that department. I remember a lot of times I wouldn’t have a variant that was hardly even tintable. If one did look good it would have the wrong metallic in it. I really liked the application and speed of it though. If they fixed the recoatability of it and the color match it would be a great basecoat.
I agree with Jayson, I don’t find Autowave dirty at all. To be honest if I could change something with Autowave I don’t think there would be anything.
What kind of plastic are you using to mask with? If it is some plastic from a home supply store don’t spray directly on it. Make sure it is made for masking cars and it corona treated or else the paint will fly off of it.
I have seen colorbuild shrink if abused or not stirred/shaken enough. Make sure it is mixed well. Is it Colorbuild Plus?
Autobase Plus likes to go on wetter than Sherwin. I would usually reduce 50% for my first coat, then add more reducer for my last two coats. I would put my first coat on kinda wet. Around 90%. It lays out better that way. If you start out spraying it around 50% wetness it will get a little rough. I could get a lot of colors covered in two coats and use the third for metallic control and insurance.
Not sure about your variants. It tells me the same as Jayson. It tells me which one to look in, I have never had to look at a sheet of paper to figure it out.
I love the Color Scala decks. What don’t you like about them? I am on Mixit Pro and looking them up on there is a breeze. The old mixit 2 is slower.
I don’t find the colorbuild slow at all. Are you using colorbuild plus?
Are you reducing your basecoat 50% or 80%?
I use it in our prep station quite a bit and also in the booth sometimes. Works great for me.
It needs at least a 1.4 nozzle. I spray it with a Tekna 1.4 7E7 aircap or a W-400lv 1.4.
I run a little lower pressure than usual. Maybe 18-20 with the w-400 or 20-22 with the Tekna.
It does pretty good with 3 coats. I will usually put a 3rd coat as it is a pretty thin clear. 2 will get it done though just fine. If you are a light sprayer it may take the 3rd to get enough milage.
You can cocktail the fast and slow if needed. The slow is still out of dust pretty quick.
Spray it how you want it to look. I have yet to run the stuff, so you can push it pretty good.
Overall I really love Pro-Air. For it’s intended use it works great for me. I can spray a job on the shop floor and have it turn out as nice as one in the booth.
Happy Birthday man! :cheers
I use colorbuild plus, not the low voc 250 version. I don’t have any issues with it but one thing to remember, low voc products seem to be more prone to being affected by contaminates. I’m guessing since there is less solvent in them is why.
Some things to look out for would be make sure you are completely wiping your degreaser off. Let the panel sit for a few minutes after degreasing and lightly blow over the surface before spraying. Also on the first coat don’t hammer it, just get a light coat on first. I like doing them this way because if any of the substrates that are in the featheredge are sensitive it will keep the primer from swelling them as much.
Another thing I thought of is I like cleaning the area I’m working on before any sanding. This way if there are any contaminates on the paint you are not just sanding them into it. I will clean with glass cleaner and solvent cleaner real quick before I start. Some sealants people use on their cars these days are pretty durable, I like to try and remove anything from the surface I can.
If none of this works don’t forget to look into the air system and stuff like the rags used in wiping things down.
[quote=”Stone” post=16201]no i try to stay away from those silver spoon products my self … BASF :rock[/quote]
WOW, very informative post Stone :rofl
any nice clear will look wet if sprayed or buffed correct. The basecoat color plays a big role also. Certain toners in a mix will be clean and some dirty. The dirtier the color the worse it will look once cleared.
If I was going to recommend a clear that has a very nice appearance I would recommend Spies Hecker 8035 or Sikkens Superior 250. The Sikkens is only for waterborne basecoat so if your using solvent go with the Spies.
Another option is House of Kolor UC35. It’s a really nice looking clear. You can get a close match to most OEM colors using HOK also, so keep their basecoat in mind also. HOK products are not too pricey either.
Yes there is a difference in reducers. Doing an all over it is nice to go a little bit slower than normal but don’t make too big of a step. If you are spraying at 75 degrees use the 85 degree reducer or maybe cocktail the 75 and 85. I don’t think it is a very good idea to go real slow. You are going to start messing with viscosity. You can slow one down too much also. Your clear should flash in 5-7 minutes normally. If it’s taking 20 minutes between coats you can make a real mess out of a job not to mention it can result in not enough milage because you have to apply so timidly. To make it even more complicated airflow and humidity will play a part also.
[quote=”Canuck” post=16122]I usually use a single stage on wheels…they get the sh!t beat out of them with mounting, snow etc – so I don’t waste much time on them personally. They always look great. If they are in reasonable shape (no curb rash etc) then I strip them and send them in for powder.[/quote]
You can’t single stage a Hyper silver type color.
The US government slow Jayson… no fuking way. I am sure they have a special division with about 50 salaried employees all of which know nothing about sprayguns. You would be lucky to find 2 of them actually working.
I do know that spray gun companies have to jump through hoops to get guns approved for sale here.
3000 and 4000 are faster drying than 2021 and 2042. Not better just more suited for a production shop.
I have used 4000, 2002, 2021 and 2042. The only one I liked were 2002 and 2021. The 2042 sprayed fine but died a few days later. The 4000 wasn’t anything impressive to me. If spraying in open conditions 3000 and 4000 would be better or possibly 2082.