ryan brown
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Looks good!
Damn Mo, you need some lights in that booth. It’s dark in there.
$450 a gallon. Man someone is getting butt raped. It’s $197 for 5 liters here. I am not sure there is a clear out there I would pay $450 for.
You will have good luck with both 2002 and 2021. They are both nice clears. Are you shooting in a booth or a garage?
Thats great Jayson. I will be interested in hearing about it.
Cool videos Lild. Truck looks good.
I don’t think it really makes that much difference. If I’m painting a doghouse I always start at the bottom and work my way over. Some jobs I start high some I start low. Never noticed a difference. If doing a roof I will always do it first.
I have a 1.2 and a 1.3 setup for a RP3000 and I find myself going for the 1.3 a lot more than the 1.2.
A 1.2 works great with certain clears but the 1.3 will work with about any clear.
I heard of a really smart and good looking guy one time that uses indoor/outdoor carpeting in his booth. Suppose to work good. :whistle:
I wouldn’t want to sandblast in the shop where my booth air is coming from. Sand gets everywhere.
Also parts have a tendency to attract more dirt as they usually have a little more static. It builds up from blowing them off and wiping them down. On a whole car it is either absorbed more. Try a mist coat of PPG DX103. If you pay attention when your blowing off a single part when it is less humid you can get a little shock, a whole car doesn’t do that.
get some rags and a few gallons of acetone and get to work.
Basic electrical work isn’t hard, but I have seen the code book for the county I am in and there is a lot in there. Electricians do a whole lot more than just wiring in service panels. Imagine having to wire an entire hi-rise building. That would suck.
The reason disconnects are used instead of regular on/off switches is probably because all the compressors are over 20 amp circuts.
I had to edit this. I remembered incorrectly. The electrician I know does them with the fused disconnect because the switch on most compressors won’t last long with alot of use. With hard wiring it in you use the disconnect as the on/off switch. I thought he said it was code around here for industrial use, but I may be wrong on that.
I can say for sure that the switches are a weak point. Our compressor company has told me this a few times, as they recommend using a separate disconnect also.
are you having a refinish network stock the bar party once done??
I have all 3 sizes. The smallest is about useless to me. I use the largest most of the time. I always try to stick it to the backside of the opposing panel and tuck it back with a card once shut.
By the time you dick with it though I could have put a piece of six inch paper in there. The only place I use it a bunch is in between the fender and door and on roof rails. I like sticking it to the fender jamb while the door is open. Once shut tuck it in. Also if painting a roof rail put it on the tops of the doors and shut them. Running paper up there is time consuming. A small piece also works good at the top of a hood, if you can get the sticky part on the backside of the fender where the hinge is. That’s an area that is a little tough to seal completely as the hinge is there and the cowl panel.
Honestly the best tip I have found for masking fast is to not waste motion. Start from one end and work smart, don’t have wasted movements. Also plastic is your friend. I dont waste time papering edges, then cutting the plastic around them again. Do it once.
I would be interested in some tips on how others tape. This seems like a thread where everybody can pick up a few new tricks.
[quote=”jim c” post=15729]Ez edger……ill have to look that up. Good thread![/quote]
[url=http://www.ezedger.com/]here you go mang![/url]
There are tricks to this as well. For instance if painting a rocker, run the tape so you will see it on the outside of the car. You want the sticky part just back of where the rocker has a 90 degree turn to go into the jamb. If done this way there is no line in the rocker. Also if your painting a hood or trunk and doing the fender or 1/4’s run the tape a little further down. Since there will be more build from clearing a flat panel give it a little bit more room.
Also lay the tape where you want it to be. Don’t pull it as you go, it can curve up, and the flap won’t do it’s job.
Something else I will do in certain situations is use both the folded tape and the transition tape. Say on a 1/4 and door job you are going to seal it. Run the folded tape inside a little more than usual. Then put a piece of transition tape next to it. Leave a little piece of the TT out at the top. After you spray your sealer pull out the TT. That way your basecoat will go past it easily and you won’t be left with a little bit of sealer creep.
I have tried the transition tape also. I find the folded 3/4 tape works better. I like the transition tape on doglegs since the folded tape wants to lay down too tight.
If you know how to place the folded tape it can do a little better job. Sometimes you need a little more room than the transition tape allows.
I find that I use both, just the folded tape more. I have been trying the same as you Jim and using the two tapes together. For certain areas of the car the foam is faster for masking, and some it is just as fast to put a piece of six inch paper in there.
it can be mounted to the masking machine or you can just hold it. To be honest I have the machine and rarely use it. It is faster for me to do it by [strike]hand[/strike], I mean manually (ding your a prick).
I have been messing around with using the foam and the folded tape lately. I always get nasty lines using foam or have sealer creep so I am not a huge fan. I have been running my edge tape and attaching my foam to the opposing panel just to seal the overspray. Not sure if it’s any faster or not.