ryan brown
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The little specs of metallic looks like solvent pop. That’s probably what he is referring to. The craters are not solvent pop.
What kinda rags you using to wipe down with?
You won’t see solvent pop till it dries. Solvent pop doesn’t happen in random spots. It will show up in a heavy spot like a run or a heavy edge. It can also cover the entire panel. It won’t sand out either, you have to respray. If you are getting a little crater here and there and they sand and buff out it isn’t solvent pop.
I painted the side of a Solara today and it had a couple spots like that in a small area. All I will do is sand them down and buff and be done with it. They will be gone. This is just part of painting everybody has to deal with at times. There is not a painter out there that only has to de-nib a couple spots and buff on every job, every day. Even the best painters have an issue here or there. They just take care of them on that job and move onto the next. If the factory with computer programmed robots can’t paint a car blemish free, how are we supposed to??? 😉
[b]steve k wrote:[/b]
[quote]Wow that brings back memories…Autobase, and the old turn-style mixing machines[/quote]Oh god I remember the spinning towers. That’s old school mixing!
Ahhh, I was gonna say you either have some metallics from a dirty gun or solvent pop.
It’s hard to say Nex. I think you have tried about everything to get rid of them. I would just dab some clear in the crater while it’s wet, then knock it down and buff. There are still times when I will get one or two in a paintjob at work. You can’t always eliminate all problems, you just have to find solutions. that’s what being a good painter is about, being able to fix things when they go array.
It depends on your spray enviorment really. If you have a booth with good airflow I like it better. If you spray in a garage I would stick with solvent.
As far as brands go I have never sprayed Mipa, but I have sprayed the other two. I would pick Standox over PPG. I like the Standox line very well.
Of what I have used of water though I would go with Lesonal or Sikkens personally. I haven’t used every brand so keep that in mind.
Might want to look into Debeer. I know Andy T uses it and seems to like it. I think he said it is priced well over there.
Do you have to add a product called Atomizing Agent to it? What reduction does it call for?
Old Autobase was reduced around 1 to 1 with 10% AA (could be wrong, it has been awhile since I used it)
Autobase plus is reduced 100 parts to 50-80 parts reducer.
If you have trouble with it lifting like crazy on cut-throughs it is Autobase! 😉
Are you talking about the crater or the tiny white specs?
Something that has helped me, I have made an effort to get better at tinting. It is a weak point of mine, mainly because I hate it and I am not that good at it. I have been making an effort at getting better. On colors where I will have to tint, I take my time and understand what I’m doing and trying to learn it rather than just get it done. It seems to be getting easier and is taking me less time to get a color where I need it.
Only really two options then. Make a sprayout when the car comes in. If it matches go on without it. If it doesn’t let your boss and the adjuster know. If it is a clear mis-match they shouldn’t have a problem paying for it, or at least tint time.
It should be on your manager. If we have a mis-match that needs blending we don’t give them the option of not paying for it. You just have to tell them you have to have blend time. An adjuster will almost always give you some tint time.
Alot of times if I only get paid tint time on a front cover I will take the hour they paid me and just blend the fenders. I know I’m loosing, but it is still quicker for me on certain colors.
I once read about a study where people today are less likely to tell you if they are unhappy with a repair. There is a better chance they will just not come back and tell there friends not to go there. Most people now don’t want to deal with the confrentation.
[b]dturcotte wrote:[/b]
[quote]I think the painter should make more…. because I am the painter :angry:
:rofl[/quote]X2. You must be a very smary guy dturcotte. 😛
Shop has a ton of potential. Lot bigger than where I work. We’re land locked.
How did you’ll ever afford that custom lighting???
I have used Cromax Pro and Autowave systems. Hands down the Autowave matches better. I get very good matches with it compared to all the systems I have used be it water or solvent. It’s not perfect but overall very good.
:welc
[b]Jinx wrote:[/b]
[quote]I am about to replace my wife’s Toyota Camry rear bumper. I dont have any way of baking it. Should I take it to a shop and have them bake it for me, or just run with it as is?[/quote]Toyota’s do not need to be baked anymore. They changed their process a few years ago. In fact they recommend not to.
Worse case you can always sit them out in the sun for an hour or two.
When needed yes. I will usually check my variants first and possibly make a sprayout. I can always get it if needed.
Most insurance companies won’t put it on the original estimate, but they don’t question it if you supplement it.