ryan brown
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No Lechler here in the states.
I gotcha 😉
[b]sagikun wrote:[/b]
[quote]i actually only spray water and never even tried solvent. just wanted to hear the responses fr shits n gigs. lol[/quote]You voted for solvent didn’t you??? If you are having trouble blending water you really don’t want to go with solvent then.
+10 for water. I have sprayed every major brand of solvent and 4 different brands of water and the water is always easier. You just have to know how to spray it.
All brands have there good colors and bad. In Sikkens there are alot of colors that are dead on matches. As a general rule I would always rather have the blend. We get alot of cars in that have been painted on before. It is nothing to see two different shades of paint on both ends of the repair.
I just like to keep things flowing at work. If I have my color sprayed out before it hits the booth and I have blend everywhere I can get 5-6 cars through the booth in a day. If I am fighting panel paints and trying to tint you can make it 2-3 cars.
I have to agree with Jayson on this. I try not to panel paint if all possible. I would never panel paint 2 doors on the side of a car.
But then again I am not a top notch tinter. I can almost always adjust a color to make a good blendable match and sometimes panel paint but it takes me awhile.
I’m testing 2 of them right now.
So far for base it does pretty good. Doesn’t put out the amount of material I would like, but not far off. It is by far the most comfortable gun I have ever sprayed with.
I would like to try out the WS400 for clear though. HVLP’s seem to struggle with the particular clear I use.
An airbrush will be too small for what your spraying. Look into a touch up gun or a full sized gun.
3 drop coats will get you a good amount of texture. Also if you spray your drop coats to dry and you put 3 on top of each other you will lose adhesion with that much dry spray.
I can’t think of a time where I have needed 3. Maybe 2. If your color is blendable and you have the right gun choice and reducer selection you should be fine with 1.
You just need a urethane primer.
Well for starters I would ditch the rattle can primer. You can go somewhere like Napa and get a quart of CP440 for pretty cheap.
You have the right idea as far as keeping the primer small and scuffing the rest for a blend. I prefer to sand the blend area then scuff but it is personal choice. Just remember NO shiny spots.
As far as gun PSI get a gauge at the gun and set it for the lowest psi that will atomize well. For primer start at 15-20 and move up from there. If it is a cheapo gun go for like 20-25 for base and 25-30 for clear. Don’t be as concerned with what psi just be concerned about the finish your getting.
You can try but don’t know if you will have much luck. Just be nice when you talk to the guy and try to meet in the middle maybe. I know I will bend over backwards for someone who is polite and reasonable.
Do you not have a spraygun? You do know per oz the cost of the spraycans is higher than anything else.
You can tell your side tone is bad by your spray out card that you did before the car was in the booth! 😛
I pretty much know if one is mottled or not before I clear it. That’s just something painters say to make themselves feel better about clearing a car with a little mottleing.:blush: Although when I use to spray solvent if you got on a car with clear before your base was flashed well enough it would mottle.
I can… if I replace the panel :blush:
I’ll finish primer in P500 and blends in P800. I will usually go around my primer with P600 only where my coverage coats will go.
I like P500 for primer because it is fine enough that you won’t see scratches but coarse enough that you can seal over if needed.