ryan brown
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Use copper. Easy to use and won’t rust like black iron. :teach
Only use schedule K or L
what brand of basecoat are you using? Have you tried sealing before you base? Waterborne base is tougher than solvent but without the solvent in it there is has no bite into the primer. Strictly mechanical adhesion. Good thing is it won’t lift even during a repaint.
How are you wiping your panels down? What products? Are you making sure you are wiping it till they are dry and not leaving any residue behind? WB requires that you have a very clean surface to start with. I always clean with a waterborne cleaner and a solvent w&g remover before the car is sanded, after it’s sanded with just the waterborne, and in the booth again with both cleaners.
There is no point in getting the 1.4. All you do is small parts right? I have both and for smaller parts I would rather have the 1.3. It will give you better control.
Now if you were spraying large jobs or all overs a 1.4 might be nice, but it depends on the clear though. Some clears don’t do well with a 1.4 as some don’t do well with a 1.3. For small parts or the occasional bumper or fender you are fine with the 1.3.
Hell I might have a spare 1.4 nozzle at work I will let go. I will look on Monday if you want. I don’t ever really use my LPH’s that much anymore. Kinda fond of the W-400.
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nice one, it’s called a Honda CR-V over here :wak[/quote]We have CR-V’s over here also.
[img]http://www.autointheknow.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/honda-cr-v-front-view.jpg[/img]Around here Transtar is sold as a lower end line. Not saying it isn’t nice just lower priced.
I use to think that higher priced always meant better but not so much anymore. I was told by a guy at Dupont school that for a gallon of clear the can cost more than what was inside. Alot of the cost is in the marketing, R&D, lifetime warranty, employees, and putting their name on a race car.
Some of the costs involved with some of the newer clears is getting them to look nice and also dry quickly.
I have heard some of the cheaper clears will skimp on the UV inhibitors.
I have shot some of the Finish 1 clear that Bondo uses. It is on my wifes car next to Spies clear. They still look exactly the same. Big price difference also.
The price is good. An amber cast on black won’t matter.
Never used it. Just because they sell a ton doesn’t mean it’s any good.
From what I have read most people who have tried the Transtar liked SPI alot better. The one thing that worries me on lower end clears like Transtar is the amount of UV screeners in them. That is usually the best place to cut costs.
I think Han has used some so maybe he will chime in with his opinion.
If your looking for a decent priced product that is very good quality look into Lesonal. I have used a good amount of it over the years and have always been impressed.
Alright, if it’s happening when the humidity is higher I think I know what your talking about. If it is over 40-50% humidity and the temp is below 85 degrees try upping the temp a little. I noticed it looking a little funny when the temp was lower and the humidity was higher. I would always use a 1.2 nozzle in a compliant gun in this situation.
Does it kinda look like small fisheyes or black spots? Kinda like the base didn’t melt in with itself good enough.
I would always take two guns in the booth. One with blender mix and one with basecoat. I would put my first coat of base on, spray my blender, then do my orientation coat. Worked well. We ended up switching to Autowave a couple of weeks ago. I like the coverage of Cromax but the color match left a little to be desired and I never liked how it recoated like s**t. If you had to put more base on after the 1.5 coats dried it would die back pretty bad.
Let me know if I can help anymore!
I used Cromax for a year or so. I can probaby help, I didn’t have any problems other than color match.
What gun are you using?
What tip?
Are you using blender(2090)?
Are you spraying blender first or in between your first coat and orientation coat?
Are you flicking your wrist?
Have you tried cutting your color 50/50 with 2090 mix on tough colors and blending out with it?
What temp and humidity are your problems at?
Do you have any slow controller?
Do you have any of the new blender(2091)?
Sorry for all the questions but it will help me give you a better answer.
You could, but I wouldn’t. If your going to cut and buff you are likely going to spray three coats, right? I would want a little deeper scratch holding the clear on. At least run a D/A over it with some 600 or 800, then scuff it.
If I was going to go through the trouble of painting my whole truck I would go ahead and base the whole truck also. Fords black can be a little brown. I would rebase with a different black, clear, then sand and buff. For that just prep with P400-500. House of Kolor has a very nice black and the price is good.
:welc
I havn’t used a lot of Deltron, but the guys I know who use it say it can mottle on you pretty easy.
Sorry link didn’t show up. It’s fixed now
http://www.globalfinishing.com/
This is the company that bought out Blowtherm. Contact them for a manual. The manual is more like a binder! Good luck.
Scuff it, dab some clear in it, let it dry, and and buff it.
I also have a CVI. There is no comparison between the two for clear. I can get a nice job out of the CVI but I have got to cut back on my material alot. The W-400 puts it on slicker and with less effort.
Out of all the guns I own I only use my RP or my W-400 for clear.