David Clark
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I have both nozzles too. I like the 1.4 better but I can get the 1.3 to work well. I just have to slow down just a bit. you will be fine with the 1.3 but if you can pick up the 1.4 from Ryan for a good price it would be worth it. Variety is always good. 😉
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]You could try a change to the orange air cap on the Iwata,that cap is supposed to spray 95%of base colors.Personaly I’m not an Iwata fan,but if you have a nr2ooo and it has served you well,then you will be happy with a new 3000 hvlp.I use one for waterborne basecoat and it works flawlessly with pearls,metallics,and tri stage.The best clear coat gun is without a doubt the 3000rp,a big improvement over the first gen rp.[/quote]I have used the orange cap a few times and Im just not that impressed with it. It works well with solid colors but I have trouble with it using it with metallics. I acually prefer the purple cap to the orange one
Thought about the RP. I used one with a 1.2 in it and only used it for clear. You could lay glass with it! I just wasnt sure how well it would work for base coat metallics and blends. You have good luck with yours?
Looks like that baby gets the job done 😉 Im kinda in the process of putting together a booth in my garage. It wont be much, I will try to put some pictures up when Im done.
You build that booth your self? what kind of exaust fan and motor do you run? You have any positive pressure in there?
Hey Bondo, couple of questions. Is that a floor drain in the booth or is it the exaust? Notice you have a micro-fish (spelling)…. have you used formula express on the net? Nice vid by the way :pcorn:
Youre the MAN Andy! Thats the stuff Im looking for :exci The exact stuff I used! Thanks! Now I just have to see if my paint supplier can get it. This is what I love about this site!
[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]The booth and you have to be hospital clean. You have to shave (everything)
and spray butt-naked too; it’s the rule.[/quote]
Lol! thats freaking funny! its true though! :roflThaks Ryan, I have used a sata NR2000 for years and decided I needed a new clear gun so I bought a CVI about a year ago and used the comp cap. I have never had so many problems with runs in my life 👿 So I bought the LPH400 and have had very good luck! So… I was just wondering if the W400LV would put out more material being that its a compliant gun, I would be getting runs again. How does the W400LV compare to the CVI?
I have used a 3000RP with a 1.2 on a job or two and it worked really good!Hey Ryan, which do you like better for clear… the w400lv or the LPH400? How do they compare?
Not sure if its just my computer or what but I can only read about half of your review on this gun. Its like the page is too small. I am very interested in what you have to say about it. If you could, will you repost the report?
Yeah, I guess I will just have to expirement with it. Im not sure why this shop uses the autoclear 3? So the Xp hardner is a replacement for the standard hardner? Is the standard hardner not even an option now? So if I were to do a whole side or a front end, Xp hardner and med activator would be the way to go? Sorry for all the questions :wak I would just like to have a head start on things when I get there.
One thing I do know is that soon we will be going to autowave so autoclear 3 may be on its way out anyway.Thanks Jayson. I will mostly be spraying in a semi down draft with infa-red heat, no forced air heat. So if I am doing a fender or a bumper and I use XP hardner, rapid activator with extra top, how fast is it going to be? how soon can it be polished?
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]i hate ta say this but if you can make Sherwin work its gonna be an easy transition for ya 😉 trust me sometimes i hate our system best of luck ta you :cheer:[/quote]Yeah I have been spraying sherwin for eight years now. I guess you could say I can make it work B) I hope the sikkens will be a good transition!
Ok so I am changing jobs. Wednesday will be my first day on the new job. Its a ford toyota dealer. So I will be spraying sikkens and will need some advice. I have done a little research about the product and have found it to be a little bit more complex than sherwin. I will be spraying mostly used cars. Bumper covers and single pannels. So whats the difference in the XP and standard hardners? What are the temp ranges for the Std, med and rapid activators? What would be the best combo for spraying these kind of jobs?
any input would be great!