David Clark
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[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote][quote]Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didn’t see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compound dust.[b] You almost need to wash the car between compound and machine glaze[/b].[/quote]Not almost. You MUST clean.
OK, im pretty sure what the problem is…basically, you’re not checking your work proir
to moving to the next steps. Yes, you need to clean after each step. Use a 50/50 mixture
of isopropyl alcohol and water in a spray bottle; after compounding, spray and wipe the
area and you’ll see what you’ve missed. Compounds and polishes do have fillers of sorts
in them (kinda like a wax).Ditch the foam cutting pad and use a good wool pad. It’s MUCH faster.[/quote]
Ok I will try the 50/50 mix. What I meant about washing the car between compound and polish was to get rid of all the dust from the compound. I do have a wool pad that I use from time to time and I still get the same results as the foam.[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]my guess is that your clear isn’t dry enough.[/quote]You are probably right! It seems that I have this problem more when I buff cars that have not had a full bake and the car needs to go.
Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didnt see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compuond dust. You almost need to wash the car between compund and machine glaze.
Those CVIs are hosers! I bust mine out every once in a while for parts cut in. I had to quit using it for clear because I would run the crap out of everything I did! It just doesnt fit my spraying style.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Waterborne base doesn’t do real well like that. It isn’t the greatest sanding thing in the world.[/quote]
Oh sorry Ryan, we go ahead and clear the fender too then 800Hey Ben, do you body guys prime your own work or does the painter?
Also..that water borne base looks weird![b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hey Ryan, How many hours did you get for that job?[/quote]I got 28.6 hours to do this job. There was also a front cover and a reclear on a t/l for scratches that wasn’t pictured.[/quote]
Thats sounds like pretty good time! We try to spray the whole fender when cutting in also, I kind of use it for a big test pannel if we are just blending a door or hood. We just buzz it down with 800 for prep, then no need to seal!
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]looks like a nice job ya got there ding :cheer: i love work like that[/quote]No you just love mud slinging! :rofl
Hey Ryan, How many hours did you get for that job?
Im not sure how dupont works but SW uses a base coat stabilizer not a reducer. I would just bite the bullet and spend the money on the SW mid if you get good matches with it. Quit messing around with this and get it sprayed 😉
Oh…So thats what that Car-O-Liner thing in the corner of our shop is for! Our guys think is a place to pile bumpers on :rofl :rofl
Well, all of a dealers enventory is owned by them. They call the insurance company to make a claim. they sent out a bunch of adjusters to cut checks. The dealer will either have them fixed or sell them as is for a reduced price. No matter what, the dealer makes money. The dealer I work for has a PDR team that fixes most of them.
[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]You should move up here. You sound like you get…the short end of the stick a lot (to be polite). Most of the shops I’ve been in/know of the painters make the real money and are treated like gods…[/quote]
You hit the nail on the head there! I do get the shaft all the time 👿 Its just the opposite where Im at. The body men are treated like Gods and the painters get the scraps. I was once told by my boss that he could get anyone off the street to paint for him so he has to be careful of what he pays me. He says its supply and demand, he thinks painters are a dime a dozen and body men are a rare bird. :rofl Dang!… I was doing so good! You just had to ge me started :exciWe havent had a REAL bad hail storm around here in years. The only hail we have gotten is small stuff that the PDR guys make bank on. It seems that when we do get a good hail car in the body men are the ones who get the gravy. Painters have to prime and paint a complete for under 17hrs most of the time.
If you are wanting to start completly over…you could try to wipe off the rattle can paint with some thinner. Im sure its not catalized. If you cant wipe it off I would just sand it down with some 600, rebase then clear the whole bumper.