Don Wedor
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He may have used the DX1999 Texture additive or maybe a secret painters ingredient……. Either way it turned out better than factory keep up the good work.
:agree :rofl :pcorn: This is going to be good.
[quote=”sagikun” post=21533]oh finish 1… lays nice. I would be using that myself if I had some kind of idea how long it last. I like trying new clears. wud love to try some of those top $ ones but I’m not a millionaire. right now my favorite is Axiom Diamond. pretty bitchen product. and its lifetime at only 80$ a kit. supprised that it’s still un known[/quote]
I tried to search for this Axiom Diamond you speak of but I come up with nothing, Could you maybe shed a little more light on this for me ? Where do you get it from?
I feel so sorry for you, Keep us posted on how you revive it . Im sure it will turn out fine prolly looks worse in the pictures.
[quote=”ENCobb” post=21467]Ok…
so I spent about 4 hours wet sanding tonight, with probably another three to go. It is some hard stuff, but smooths out nicely with enough work. I started with 400, when most of it was out, moved to 600, and finished with 800 and some window cleaner as a lubricant. Makes it very very slick.
Before primer.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130526.jpg?t=1311741886
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130525.jpg?t=1311562914
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130533.jpg?t=1311563135
After sealer had cured for about 18 hours, about 5 oclock this afternoon.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130593.jpg?t=1311740228
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130601.jpg?t=1311740278
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130602.jpg?t=1311740303
After about 4 hours of wet sanding.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130605.jpg?t=1311740326
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130607.jpg?t=1311740372
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130608.jpg?t=1311740410
The engine bay, looks good even dirty.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/ENCobb/P1130610.jpg?t=1311740419
Just tried to fix your picture links so we can see them 🙂 :pcorn:
Also It looks good and for petes sake take them rims off before you regret leaving them on (trust me) its not going anywhere.
just sand out your imperfections with 220-320 then re prime the areas if you go through the primer, since you have so much peel on the hood you should be able to DA it with some 220-320 to smooth it out.
if you dont go through your primer layer while sanding then you are good and no need to reprime (unless you think you are close to going through) just to keep proper film build.
well if it was me I would just let it finish drying and sand out your defects with like 180 then just recoat those spots. scuff sand it and you are ready for primer.
I just checked to Tech sheet on that Primer and it doesnt say anything about being mixed at a 4:1:.5 as a sealer.
it should only be mixed 2:1 and is not a sealer
just sand out your defects(prolly better off sanding what you sprayed on off) at a 2:1 ratio it only takes like 30min to dry so just use the 2:1 ratio this would also explain your peel issue.
I posted the link to the Tech sheet below
Well Can you atleast tell us what system you are using? Im sure we would be glad to give advice.
I agree you will have more money invested in trying to repair it than Replacing the panel
can you get a picture of the damage maybe we could give you a better suggestion and I can Assure you Bondo is not even an option
yep +1
those time all look correct and the temp should not be a problem unless its over 95 so go for it and tell us how it went. :weights
Do you know the exact name of the plastic primer? then we could help you out a bit more
just a site I have used to help me find parts from the wrecking yards
Find good deals every once in a while
Then it will be one of the first three may have to tint it the rest of the way or blend it
This will be your Best Friend there are a couple versions but this is the fastest way use with a cordless drill
there are two paint codes called 1F2 this is the other on it started in 2008 to cuurent the other ones I listed ended in 2010
there are only two variants for the newer color
Both Variants listed below
Prime
1F2 / TOY.1F2:09 – MERCURY, PREMIUM SILVER
TOY.1F2:09
Code Description Abs. Cum. Grams Parts
T472 FINE LENT. MET 535.2 535.2 501.5 49.60
T476 COARSE LENT. MET 448.9 984.1 420.6 41.60
T404 BLACK 43.1 1027.2 40.4 4.00
T440 RED 17.3 1044.5 16.2 1.60
T491 MATT BASE 17.3 1061.8 16.2 1.60
T415 BLUE 9.7 1071.5 9.1 0.90
T402 WEAK WHITE 7.6 1079.1 7.1 0.70
QuartLighter face, Redder Flop Than Prime
TOY.1F2:09
Code Description Abs. Cum. Grams Parts
T475 MED LENT. MET 804.2 804.2 753.6 73.98
T472 FINE LENT. MET 126.2 930.4 118.3 11.61
T404 BLACK 76.2 1006.6 71.4 7.01
T440 RED 27.2 1033.8 25.5 2.50
T491 MATT BASE 25.1 1058.9 23.5 2.30
T415 BLUE 17.4 1076.3 16.3 1.60
T402 WEAK WHITE 10.9 1087.2 10.2 1.00
Quartmaybe this is why your colors are off since there are 2 prime colors
