Don Wedor

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Viewing 15 posts - 196 through 210 (of 394 total)
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  • July 11, 2011 at 7:50 am #31638

    Jim C told you why this was happening just read the posts :teach

    July 10, 2011 at 11:33 pm #31633

    ya the online PPG one dont work that great either I just did a general search for the blue color group for lambo and it only came back with 6 or 7 colors then looked up all colors for lambo used since 1999 and it came back with like 34 colors on Azko Qnet site.

    one other question for jason

    How come the Azko online doesent show the manufacture codes only the name of the color and the Azko code?
    I suppose the peeps really using the stuff have a far more advanced program at the shop .

    July 10, 2011 at 8:47 pm #31631

    Im going to say that all your problems stem from putting to much wet product over each other to fast with no flash times. Also you should be using putties and primers with hardener in them this will also help you in the future. But we all had to learn somehow and your giving it your best. Try some new products and see if it doesent help. practice on something first.

    July 10, 2011 at 8:38 pm #31630

    I did check Azko online and the color is not listed for any of their paint lines. Just as you said earlier may have to switch brands for this job.
    Atleast you werent skunked on this one.

    July 9, 2011 at 9:18 pm #31616

    :hij: Not to change the subject but are those flowers painted on you car ! :blink:

    [quote=”Roman” post=21192]Very cool staff. I need to buy it as well :rock
    [/quote]

    July 9, 2011 at 9:14 pm #31615

    Kitty Hair®
    Best known for its bridging capabilities in rebudiling shattered fiberglass and for reinforcing torn or rusted areas of sheet metal. Formulated with long strands of chopped fiberglass. Double the strength of standard fillers. Waterproof. Rustproof. Can be used with or without fiberglass cloth or mat. Should be finished with Rage® and/or Metal Glaze®. Blue cream hardener included.

    this was pulled from the Evercoat website fastest way for us to explain it. kitty hair is a trademark name used by Evercoat . there are other names like USC uses Duraglass same type of stuff

    kinda like Kleenex is facial tissue , but its just one company, but we all call Puffs or what ever brand we have in the house kleenex even tho its facial tissue :deadhorse

    July 9, 2011 at 8:55 pm #31614

    this is the PPG DBC formula Cost $151.00 a Quart just a basecoat color

    Paint System/Variant
    Motor Manufacturers LAMBORGHINI Code 0047 / PPG Code 194985 – FLIP FLOP BLUE PEARL

    194985
    Code Description Abs. Cum. Grams Parts
    DMD1676 BLUE 279.2 279.2 261.6 26.77
    DMD614 BLUE 261.5 540.7 245 25.06
    DMD1683 BLACK 76.1 616.8 71.3 7.30
    PRL93 GOLD PEARL 60.8 677.6 57 5.83
    DMD646 WEAK WHITE 20.3 697.9 19 1.94
    DBX1689 CLEAR 345.1 1043.0 323.4 33.10
    Quart

    July 8, 2011 at 7:41 pm #31600

    :pcorn: looks like it would work great for the lil cars not so much for bigger cars . have you tried it on a 4 door sedan yet? how much did it flex? otherwise looks like a great back saver cover it and take it in the booth with ya to

    July 7, 2011 at 9:34 am #31570

    [quote=”kuki”]
    so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
    i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]

    I have never seen anyone spray Clear over basecoat with out letting it dry always give it 20-30min to let the solvents out .
    I would Say without a doubt that is why it looks as it does. just as Jim says its doing (the man knows his shit) :teach

    Now all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again

    it will be good practice and remember always follow the tech sheets not what you see in a video cus who knows what products or video editing there using

    July 3, 2011 at 10:19 am #31518

    :blink: I seen these there like $150.00 , the way he starts out in the begining he makes it sound like its a throw away sander

    I have a 4500 that just now might need new bearings its 20+ years old

    I want something I only have to buy 1 or two of in my life not one every other year and I would pay more for that longevity feature

    But the new sander prolly will last as long as the others for half the cost which is a plus in my book

    June 30, 2011 at 11:01 am #31490

    :welc To the Family!

    June 26, 2011 at 9:44 pm #31459

    ya looks like it turned out great aside from the lil issues. thats what makes this buisness not so predictive kinda keeps us on our toes and as you said helps us learn new things

    June 24, 2011 at 7:39 am #31425

    ya well I only typed it once, apparently the website decided to post it twice

    June 23, 2011 at 8:49 am #31418

    :rofl

    June 23, 2011 at 8:40 am #31416

    (this is an example for explaination purpose only) And you do not need the manual for the booth, but you need the manual for the temp controller. give me the info on the controller and I can tell you what you need to do.

    the temp controller should work like this SP = usually is Setponit , AL = Usually is Alarm (telling you the booth is not at setpoint)

    [b]Switch in spray mode[/b] = fan duct should go to outside exhaust, temp setpoint 1 will go to 70 Degrees F (or whatever you have it set for) there will be a setting for deviation from set point temp should be like 10-20 degrees, So If temp goes above or below the setpoint temp it will alarm. so if temp is set for 70 it wont alarm till 60 or 80 degrees.

    [b]Switch is set to Bake[/b] = Fan Duct goes to recirc mode, temp setpoint 2 goes to 140 Degrees (this will bring up an alarm because its not at temp )

    this stuff is not hard to work on but helps to know how it works

    Im an Industrial Electrician and deal with this stuff everyday

    So if you can look up the controller manufacturer to find a manual would be best or just replace the controller ( sounds harder than it really is ) I use Watlow , and Honeywell controllers at work and an omron here and there, but I would recommend Watlow

Viewing 15 posts - 196 through 210 (of 394 total)