Nelson Hays
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:nothingtoad
I’m looking at a couple of basic X stands and a door hanger for my floor jack. Am I right that these oughta do the trick?
if it’s going on bare wood then use resin as a primer. I’m a glass guy so my approach is probably different from others…
In the interior business we use MDF and filler all day long. the filler will stick like you won’t believe if you use resin to prime it, then fill, then blast the whole thing with poly to seal it all up and let the resin/filler cure 100%. block it out, and seal that with epoxy.
I just seal it up every step of the way and clear it in the end. no issues with wood moving to date.
what do you want to know? I’ve put a few guitars back together.
I used bondo to fill the deep stuff, poly primer and block it out. just like autobody.
I have had the best success with bumpers by shooting a little rattle can plastic adhesion promoter on the bare spots, nicked corners in shipping, etc., then blast the whole thing with epoxy primer and filler primer.
Is it just freight to AK, or are all bumpers always beat up when they get to you guys?
When you said ‘gun rack’ I was already coming up with redneck jokes
:hunt
nice! :rock
I envy you guys that can crank these jobs out. ….and in an actual booth…
I saw a really impressive PVA booth coating at SEMA. I’m sure that’s the direction I’d go if I ever get a booth. Glossy walls are easier to clean, coating knocks the sheen down to semi-gloss, overspray dulls it down to flat.
sanding that off will really suck….
acetone will slowly eat it….. that will suck too. maybe paint stripper and hot pressure wash?
I’ve got to tell you guys – I am totally sold on Eagle Abrasives. I saw them at SEMA, and got to demo a number of papers at their booth. Amazing! Doing everything dry, including up to 3k grit, will save a lot of time, and being able to skip a few grits with this paper while you’re at it?!? Awesome.
Do you run a soap and water through a cleaner when spraying water base?
[quote=”Ben” post=23271]If you are just doing the exterior and not going too nuts removing parts and trim you can have the job done in 2-3 days if you work hard.
If you are literally just looking for a splash and dash, I would remove all the easy stuff (tail lights, rear bumper, mirrors, belt moulding door handles). Prep the truck from one end to the other for paint, mask it, fix the small dents and spot prime those areas, sand the primed areas the next day and go straight to paint without re-masking. Let it dry overnight and on the 3rd day put it together. Definitely NOT the best way to do the work, but if you are careful you could get a decent looking job out of it like that.
I’m not sure what you mean by the door jambs being an issue?[/quote]
What I’m getting at is I’ve never been any good at spot priming :lol1 I always end up blasting a whole area, and it gets me in trouble. at the edges of the door I’ve got to prime them, and that’s no biggie, but in the jamb if I get a hard line of primer I guess I’ll just have to carefully feather them down and foam tape it for paint. I’m just looking to save time if I take on this job…
Thanks a lot Ben.
Looks great! it is pretty orange for my taste too, but I have horrible taste :dnc
[quote=”Red Baron” post=23250]”Slicker than shit, other than the dirt and fisheyes”
LOL
:rofl[/quote]:agree
:pcorn: :clappy :rock
I don’t think I’ve ever seen lacquer primer at the store….
is there a way to improve WB toners shelf life?
photobucket is your friend.