Craig
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I haven’t tried the Featherfill or G2 but I’ve used their Slicksand. I bought SATA’s poly gun which comes with a 2.5 tip, I don’t like the way it lays down, cranking the pressure did nothing to help break it up…lots of mils for sure and great for 1st round of blocking which is why I used it…but based on the poor atomization I’d like to try a 2.0 next time. I know the guys at the shop are thinning it 10% or so and using a 1.7 with no problems. That G2 must be thick if you can’t get it out with a 2.8:S
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I lost a tech school kid 1/2hr into prepping a bed for a spray in liner. lazy bastard.[/quote]Unfortunately TV shows like the former American Hotrod and Overhaulin give the young kids an illusion of what it takes to do a complete restoration, most kids don’t get past the grunt work.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]ive got a 17 yr old thats going ta have a date with my mudhog:woohoo:[/quote]:laugh: I asked the kid who cuts our grass if he ‘likes working on old cars’..I think he said yes :unsure: …I was going to pay him to strip my next project…I’d have to start him with some 80 and a DA…see how he makes out. We had a kid at the old shop strip a 68 Cuda, ( not close enough supervision ) he let loose on the back side of the hood with some 3″ 36 grit rolocs…what a mess, he created so much more work for his dad LOL….
Anyone else use Slicksand? Lots of build for blocking, easy sanding ( better than U-Tech’s 2K100 ) great for restos’. I have heard of some guys having problem with the activation, could be the 4 tubes of activator are causing some mixing ratio problems. I’m using SATA’s poly gun with a 2.5 tip, it really hoses it on, in hindsight I would have like to use a 2.0-2.2 to see if it breaks it up a bit better…I know some guys are reducing it ( with the recommended acetone ) and using a 1.7 with no problems other than fewer mil build obviously.
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