brandon dingwell
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- March 27, 2009 at 7:23 pm #13607
ya its the 15410. would have liked to have the slower hardener so it flowed out a little more but it matches everything else. I thought about using the expensive glaso clear but just couldnt find it :whistle: . I felt a little dirty but after seeing the job the audi dealer did to it the last time I got over it fast 😉
Thanks for the compliments guysMarch 27, 2009 at 7:19 pm #13606actually there never really was a problem :whistle: these guys just like breaking my stones cause the last ones i posted were with used parts. the holes are usually bigger with those :blush:
March 26, 2009 at 3:39 pm #13586[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]We’ll just call it the ding/bondo box![/quote]
That is how you fix a ding right, with some bondo :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:March 25, 2009 at 11:32 pm #13575thats what you get for that gravel gaurd comment 😛 😛 😛 . but you really need another hobby if your paint wheel covers on 89 new yorkers :rofl :rofl :rofl
March 25, 2009 at 9:49 pm #13571[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote]
___________________________________________________________________________________On a side note, how about making the shout box more like a chat box? Something like MSN chat?
It’s hard to get a word in edgewise… :)[/quote]
Just type and hit enter 😉March 25, 2009 at 9:44 pm #13570come on guys. give the etch some respect 👿 a good quality etch with epoxy over it will provide maximum adhesion and corrosion protection. do you need it with epoxy -no. but it doesnt hurt 😉 .
March 25, 2009 at 8:30 pm #13567I wouldnt use rattle can etch. i would use a good 2 part etch like variprime or something similar, i always like putting an etch over bare metal, especially burnt metal. but definately need a sealer over the etch and i would use epoxy for the best protection
March 25, 2009 at 3:45 pm #13559no priming on the engine bay, I agree. sand the burned areas to bare metal scuff the rest. shoot a light coat of etch (i know you dont like etch but in this case its a good thing) then a coat or 2 of epoxy as a sealer then paint.
March 24, 2009 at 5:27 am #13545i like the concept of the junair quads. but i think they run around 20k. i’ve been to a local shop that has the garmat fans and to tell you the truth i wasnt really impressed. they are abouth 1/2 price of the junair but they really look like cheap ceiling fans installed in the booth. really for that set up i think you could buy the fans and do the insatll yourself for around 1500-2000. you may want to look into a few sets of venturi blowers on stands. they will be more economical and do the same job. really how often will you need air blowing on all 4 corners of the vehicle
March 21, 2009 at 1:10 am #13514Well your original estimate included the parts so you’ll gladly work off that. then they’ll have some spare parts 👿
March 20, 2009 at 3:47 pm #13506[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Thanks for the kind words guys.I used lesonal SB base coat and HS+ clear.This car belongs to the father of a kid who used to prep for us.
They did a frame off restoration and all the body work at their garage at home.They asked me if I would go over it and paint it for them.
I never should have touched it,the old man is being a pain in the ass.[/quote]
Thats when i tell them I will gladly remove the paint from the car and give it back to them the way it was before they gave it to youMarch 20, 2009 at 3:44 pm #13505I like the popcorn one too. can you fix it though so you dont have to put a space between each smiley for it to show. Bondo hasnt figured that one out yet so 1/2 of his smileys just show the code :whistle:
March 20, 2009 at 3:15 am #13497[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]lol, not only could he do that. He could give it to them with the runs errr Flow indicators. and still make over the quoted price on it. :pcorn:[/quote]
you’re just jealous :lol1 :lol1 :lol1March 19, 2009 at 11:29 pm #13484just factor a parts markup when you quote it out. no one needs to know 😉
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