Jayson Munro
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If it is a newer one the drop in motor is a snap to change,you can be up and running in about 5 mins.The bottom bearing is usually the one that craps out on the dynabrade,I just pull it apart and go down to the automotive parts store or bearing place(transmission rebuilder supply) and match it up and it’s good as new.
Here is a link that helped me rebuild mine a couple of years ago
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Projects/airsander.htmlThis is such a simple thing but it makes a huge difference when doing a spray out card.You know when you put your spray out card on the car and the color looks close but a little off? Take a piece of black paper and then put your spray out card on top of it so there is about 1/4 inch black border all the way around the spray out,then place it on the car and look at it with your sungun.This will show you if the color will be blendable,it is amazing how simple but effective a tool this is.
Do your tinting in the morning,that is when your eye is the best.Always tint to blend,not to butt match.Remember when dealing with metalics if you want it darker use a big metallic,if you want to lighten use a small metalic,adding white to a metalic will not lighten it but kill all metallics.When looking at variants your eye will usually pick the best one within a few seconds,don’t keep looking at them for a long period of time.Always stay in the formula when tinting(there are exceptions to the rule),always use automotive clear on your sprayouts,NO SPRAYBOMB CLEAR!!!Just a few things to think about.Quick question Justin,how come you never walked the side when you did the tri-stage on this job?? Your technique worked for you and it was nice with no dark spots.Just curious is all :stoned
That was a great video,well done :clappy :clappy :clappy
Welcome to the forum,and enjoy your stay,great bunch of people here :cheers
Nice job Ding that was a quick turnaround :cheers :cheers
You could do that mustang in 2.5-3L of autowave over a black sealer.Try doing your coverage coats with 22psi and 18 psi for your drop coat,that will save you some material ;)Utech 200 is a medium solids material,that is why you use more product.
It’s not superior but it works and has a nice gloss.How much will you need to spray your car?Autowave is around $75 a litre,ya cheapskate 😛
Just do it in autowave if you want to use superior,much less work 😉 If it is available get some utech polybase and HS clear and call it done.
Get some thick marigold rubber gloves,some gunwash and some paper towels and see if it will wipe off with some elbow grease.
I think you would be better off using 3.5(3.8 if you can still get it) single stage poly urethane for a couple of reasons.It is more durable than 200,has a nicer gloss.I would not use superior 250 wet on wet,if you want to do it wait a couple of days and scuff it with a gray pad or wetsand with 600 and clear it.If you want to do it wet on wet Utech HS clear might be a better choice.Are you doing a solid color??
If it hasn’t cured by now you have to strip it,no way around it.
:p :p :p
Since they stopped making 3m extra cut ,I have started using Farecla G4 for high solids paints.I have to tell you that polishing Sikkens Superior 250 is like trying to get concrete to shine,almost impossible.Since using G4 you can polish superior like the old ms clears with little effort.You use a “real lambs wool Pad”to get the gloss back and finish with a red foam pad.If you wish you can go over it with G10 swirl remover but just swithcing pads and using the same polish is all you really need 😉 :cheers
The best fix is a new boxside.Your other option is to do an aftermarket wheel arch rust repair panel.The old school way is to take out your inner wheel well,do your rust panel with a butt weld,metal work it,then install your inner wheel well.Much faster to just put on a whole new panel 😉