james caruso
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#1 you should be using a good clear. #2 sanding and reclearing is called flowcoating. alot and most good restoration shops will do this. no matter what clear you use the job will always come out smoother and flatter when you flowcoat. i use spi clears and i will do 4 coats, let dry, block it out with 400 and do another 3 coats using another clear of theirs that is much slower. flowcoating is in between a regular sprayed finish and a sanded and buffed job. i still always sand and buff the flowcoated job as well. the flowcoating just makes for a finish that has alot less urethane wave in it. if your doing nice top notch restoration work then you should be flowcoating and sanding and buffing the final finish everytime. if its collision work then never. you should be able to spray and be done short of taking care of some dust nibs. if your looking for good premium clears and primers at a more resonable price check out spi clears. the specialize in the restoration market. you call them to order and shipping is free to your door.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com
thats chrome not anodize and cant be stripped off that easily. there is a layer of chrome then nickel and copper under it before you get to the actual metal. you can take it off and put it on a buffing wheel to see what you get. if that doesn’t do it you need to send it out or get a new one. if its expensive then its really no big deal to have it sent out for rechrome.
thats about the nicest home made booth i have seen. awesome job on that.
i believe you are talking about an open faced booth. its just a wall of filters with a short 4′ or so wall on each side and top. there is a banner that pops up occasionaly on this forum with a picture of one. i attached a pic as well. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/P0032513x.gif[/img]
its really hard to tell from the pic but it looks like water spots, overspray or maybe even the chrome is worn off showing the nickel under it??? if the chrome is worn showing the nickel then you can only rechrome the part.
yes the boilers i was looking at were the gassification type that are like 90% efficient and they qualify for the credit BUT the credit is 35% up to a max of $1500. the cost of an outdoor wood boiler system runs about $15,000. the lower efficiency ones that dont qualify run about $10g. i thought of doing a furnace inside the garage and duct it into the oil furnace but by the time i do a chimney and everything else involved that would be getting up there in cost too plus i would only be able to run the house. the wood boiler i could run the house and the shop. the shop burns double the electric and oil that the house does. i am going to goto a home show here in feb and central boiler will be there. i will talk with them to see if its worth it or not.
i know people that do it professionaly and at home using eastwoods stuff. dont know about hf. i would stay away from that one. you do need an oven, no cure lamps. they give inconsistant flow of the powder.
you always want to take as much filler off as you can. when all done there will be areas you see metal, different layers of filler, etc. its fine if you break through the filler as long as the part is straight/flat. when doing bodywork, even with a hard block you do need to take into account the different hardnesses of the substrait. if you break through you need to watch that you dont go too far because you will create a low spot where the filler is and high where the metal is. this also goes for different layers of filler. if you spread your first coat of filler, sand, then your second coat and goto sand you need to rememeber that the second coat is softer than the first and will sand away easier than the first. this is assuming your getting on the filler right away and not letting it cure till its rock hard. once you get the panel as straight as possible, put a few coats of a polyester primer on it and block that out with some 150-180. its build up thick with no shrinkage and will allow you to block a single product with the same hardness throughout the panel making it pretty straight. plus it fills pinholes and slight surface defects minimizing the about of 2k primer you will need. once your bodywork is done correctly that is only one step needed to make it wave free. the second thing that will help is clearing twice. on your first round of clear put like 4 coats down, let cure for 24 hours or so, block the car down with 400grit then reclear it with another 3 coats, sand and buff. you will see a huge difference in how flat the clear is when done. you will have much less wave in the clear.
as for the site, i have had this problem with every thread that has a large picture in it. thanks for looking into it!!
no i am using ie8. i actually just tried the compatibility view and it shows up fine. i guess the forum isn’t set up to run in ie8.
i have a neverending supply of wood on my property and nothing to burn it in. been thinking about an outdoor wood boiler but they are so expensive.
hey jinx, i have been having the same problem with alot of the threads for the past couple months. you downloaded something?? where is the download?
it was a big multi million dollar company. they had 1000ft rolls of that stuff. if the maint. dept. would have fixed my regular hoses the right way i never would have had to do it……its their fault!! :rofl
i just bought 2 red ones and got about 2 weeks out of each of them. they are dryrotted right out of the package. from now on i will only buy the goodyear hoses. they seem to hold up alot longer. i used to have the lightweight flexeel ones. they are great for some things but i dont like them in the shop because they twist and loop around your feet so easy. they are alwys in the way somehow. i have one airline i made at my old job about 10 years ago and its still like new of course it was made of low psi aeroquip hose. the 50 foot line probably cost my old employer $400 but its mine now!! 😛
it is slower but no too bad. i’m impatient and wont wait for anything and the speed doesn’t bother me too much. if it gets worse though it might be a problem.
on another note i have had another problem. not sure if anyone else has seen this but when i am looking at a thread that has pictures, the right side of the page is cut off and there is no scroll bar to slide it over. this is the only forum or site i have seen do that. anyone else notice it??
i just ordered a big set of of the afs blocks to tackle the caddy. that car is vary similar to your project, just a bit bigger.