MoCoke
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whoa! no scuff and shoot for that one
waste of time
i like the way he lights his joint in that pic with speed and precision
if the panels being sealed, i seal it normal, then mask and turn down the air pressure and give the lower panel or rocker an extra coat or two of sealer. unmask, color, and clear normally. no need for the 1k stuff
[quote=”ding” post=23960][quote=”Andy T” post=23958]Sorry, that can’t be OEM BMW paint – there’s not enough peel in it :p :rofl[/quote]
Come on. I see plenty of peel in that photo :rofl :rofl :rofl
It is lil d after all :whistle:[/quote]lol
nice yard 😉
id just grind it off lightly enough to remove the coating and reapply with a poly glaze
got a link to the ebay stuff? are you using the 4.2 glamour clear? if so, i been using the usc version for a few years now and no problems whatsoever with it. one of the best clears ive tried
look at the duty cycle of the machine your looking to purchase. if its like 20% youll end up needing to let it cool between every tack weld :chair
3M provides some good support on how to prepare a repair area, videos and such. heres a link to the standard operations page. http://3mcollision.com/library/sops
too many exclamation points “!” :nothingtoad
[quote=”unclejack857″ post=22013]Thanks! It was the base coat actually. Does metallic tend to look dryer when first applied? Because it seems like it looks pretty dry when it first is applied, then after a minute it looks as though it tends to look the way it should. I get nervous painting as I usually have so much time involved in my bodywork!I love painting and need experience but as you all know materials are expensive! Probably the best paint job I ever did was on a race car! lol I wasn’t nervous because it really didn’t matter how well it turned out! It almost looked professional! It was just a single stage acrylic enamel. Any advice is always appreciated as always!!!!!!! Thanks! Jack[/quote]
if you had runs with your base coat it means your applying it too heavy or wet and not letting it flash between coats. base is meant to be applied in light coats to achieve coverage and color. as far as the clear running it could caused by stopping in the middle of a panel, and not observing proper overlap like 50% or 75%, flash times, or proper reduction
agreed. does sound like just another unneeded expense, but all i can think of that maybe a benefit of using it in the paint shop is it condenses at a much lower temp. perhaps 100% dry air?
[quote=”Wydir” post=21908]those are for winter painting :whistle:[/quote]
:lol1
shave your arm pits and please observe good hygiene