John
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I see it’s a Jaguar (or, as they say in the commercials Jag–oooh- arrrhhh). What makes it a Shaguar (or is that Shag-oooh-arrrhhhh)?
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]Just about any PPG clear costs me about $200.00gl and a quart of hardener is about $100.00. How does the S-W clear work in a booth. My booth moves a ton of air and I have trouble using any kind of quick clear[/quote]The top line SW clears run in the area of $200 (Just over $200 list price). Shops get a shop price which probably puts them in the $180 range. The UH80 hardener used in the HPC15 clear list for $115 per quart. The UH904 hardener used in CC931 & CC950 list for $81.
HPC15 is not at all designed to be baked – there is no recommendation.
If the air flow in your booth makes it tough for you to work with quick clears…you can tweak CC931 or CC950 with your reducer choice. CC931 is quick, designed for panel or spot repairs. The CC950 is designed for doing completes.
Your booth being the way it is, what *I* would do would be to bring a small amount of each clear over and spray some test panels or something to see how it worked in you particualr situation. I’d probably start with CC931, US5 reducer as my first guess at a combo that would work well for you.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]wow my jobber IS screwing me hard my ass still hurts:blink: :blink:[/quote]I don’t think so Bondo… I think Jimmo’s SW supplier gave him the deal of the century.
Jimmo… sprayable cost is the *only* way to accurately compare paint lines. You’re right on the money. I don’t have the pricing here (other than list price on the web site – which is $22.10 per gallon) I have to think your SW supplier gave you a *serious* discount on that clear.
You are talking about a gallon of HPC15 clear and a quart of UH80 hardener, right? Didn’t you also get some US3 or US4 reducer (5:1:1 mix ratio).
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]i see I still haven’t got any numbers, i will one day. Anynhow nighthawk, I just got some of this in and am going to give it a shot. Just wondering if you’ve gotten any feedback or advice you can pass on for me.
[/quote]As far as direct feedback, I have one local guy who does a lot of custom bikes. He also does some collision work to keep the money rolling in. He bought a quart to try on a couple of bikes, loved it, came back, bought a gallon – says he loves it. He doesn’t have a booth. He likes that he can spray it on, walk away and go start on the next project without having to worry about it.
[quote]
p.s – I am impressed with it already, its less $$$ then any clear I currently stock![/quote]I almost hate to say this, but, Wow! THe list price on this stuff is right up there with our other top clears. This stuff is *not* inexpensive. How much are you usually paying for clear??
There are a lot of ex-painters working for the paint companies. Depending on where you were working and who you end up working for, it could be a pay cut, it could be about the same, it could be a pay raise.
Most painters seem to lean more towards tech rep positions. Maybe because they are more comfortable talking to painters than they are talking to managers and owners (which is what you’d be doing as a sales rep).
I’ve seen where some of my competitors are laying off right now (or did recently), so I don’t know how many of these positions may or may not be available. As for jobbers, they all do their own thing, so, you might find one that’s doing well and need someone.
As for SW specifically, we’re still growing, sales are still trending upwards, and we seem to be continually hiring people. It seems our current recruitment model focuses on getting recent grads from college automotive programs (they often work for us as interns while they’re in school). We’re all over the US, Canada, and the world, so, the availability of positions is going to vary by location.
No matter who it is, your best places to start would likely be;
1) The company web site (often has online applications, and some times job listings)
2) Talk to your local supplier and ask him to put you in touch with the regional manager.
Good luck!!
$1,000?? You’re kidding, right? I know guys doing side jobs in the garage or backyard and they wouldn’t touch something like that for less than $2,000. Take it into a shop, you’re looking at $3,500-$5,000, easy.
That’s insane man.
I agree. Across the board, in any industry, most unhappy customers will never say a word to you about it. They *will* tell a whole lot of their friends though.
Using 36 grit to speed up stripping off the paint does *not* speed up the job!
No doubt, take it back. They can claim the back bumper wasn’t part of the repair (true), to which you can respond that you’d like them to make the front bumper not match the car the same way the rear bumper doesn’t.
It will be easier and less work for them to scuff and shoot the rear bumper.
Fiberglass Evercoat Maxim line of products is pretty cool and works well. Two part products in a single tube.
Seriously…
I think one of my top tips would be to [u]always[/u] get the PDS (Product Data Sheet) for every product you use, and follow it to the letter!
[b]dw32 wrote:[/b]
[quote]what is their best one and why? G3, G4, or Total?[/quote]I don’t suppose they have a “best one”, as they are different for different purposes, users or whatever.
G3 is an extra cut compound, the G4 comes after, like a swirl remover. Total you use by changing pads… thay all have their time & place I suppose.
Don’t bet on Lucky 7 in the second.
I don’t think they decided to go to Mexico – they’ve just stopped building vehicles they won’t sell. Sales are way down on SUV’s and trucks due to the increasing gas prices.