ryan brown
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- May 21, 2009 at 3:37 pm #14386
Have you all ever run into color matching issues with Hyundais and Kias? I have seen quite a few where the color is off because you can still see the undercoat underneath it. There is a burnt orange color that is real bad. We had a bulliten on it not to long ago.
Looks like you have your work cut out for you Ding! I hate side hits, I would take a front end any day over that.
May 16, 2009 at 6:52 am #14337Looks good!
Where’s your shop located? Is it by a salvage yard? I see heavy equipment and alot of wrecked cars
May 15, 2009 at 8:19 pm #14322We lost 4 in our area. Most were small but it is still people out of work.
I I don’t know how this is going to help chrysler! All it did was put more people out of work.
May 7, 2009 at 4:26 am #14241Damn , that’s gravy if I have ever seen it! Somebody’s backside hurts right now.
Looks good!
April 29, 2009 at 4:10 pm #14130Always! The repair area shouldn’t have anything on it but the area of your blend will collect overspray. Make sure to tack off your paper too. I use the same towel that has my waterborne degreser and wipe off my paper.
April 24, 2009 at 4:42 am #14066It’s a bad idea to blend a dark side. You will chase your blend forever!
I just painted an Escape today that was TL.
April 23, 2009 at 7:01 am #14044Try a test panel with some urethane reducer. Hell the reducer just evaporates out anyway.
April 15, 2009 at 5:37 pm #13978Honestly you probably don’t need to prime. You should be fine wet sanding your spots with 800, spot sealing and painting. Don’t make more work for yourself if you don’t have to.
With that said if you feel better spot priming just spray or dab a little adhesion promoter on your spots with a towel that you would use to wipe it down with and prime. I would think a q-tip would leave cotton behind. I don’t know though as I have never tried it.You might be fine spraying the adhesion promoter on the spot. If the only substrate you have on the bumper is epoxy I can’t imagine it lifting. But, I have never epoxied a bumper or used SEM ap so I couldn’t say for sure. I know that one od duponts adhesion promoters will lift some substrates but not all.
April 15, 2009 at 1:46 pm #13976UPDATE!
I went to the local BASF jobber and got the color mixed in 55-line Glasurit. After making a let-down panel I found one that was a panel paint.
Thanks Jimmo! The code you gave me was perfect!
April 15, 2009 at 1:41 pm #13975If the areas you have gone through are small I would take some of your adhesion promoter on a towel and just dab the spots of plastic, let flash, spot seal, flash, then basecoat. You shouldn’t nave any problems. When you seal just dust a light coat on your spots then a wetter coat.
I have never used SEM adhesion promoter, that’s the reason I said to dab it with a towel. Some brands will want to lift the finish around the area of plastic. I don’t know if SEM is like that or not. One thing you have to worry about is the plastic that’s exposed getting hairy looking. If you have wet sanded it that shouldn’t be a problem. If the bumper is made of PP+EPDM, PP, or PPO then it stands a better chance of getting hairy. If it’s a more rigid type like ABS you have less to worry about.
April 13, 2009 at 7:41 am #13957Looks really good! I can vouch for the Lesonal Glamor clear. It’s some very nice stuff only drawback is that it’s not an easy buff.
I always have my pressure turned up with my Iwata’s. I don’t think the gun performs well at their recommended 16psi.
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