Scott
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wipe the bumper down with a quality wax and grease remover, sand the bumper with 400 grit sandpaper, fix any imperfections, if there are any spots of bare plastic use an adhesion promoter, prime your spots or complete bumper(depending how many spots you have)add a flex aditive to your primer. Wait for the primer to flash as recommemded, sand with 400 grit, blow the bumper of with air, wipe with final wipe cleaner,wipe well with a tack rag and paint. Im not sure what products you have available to you so i cannot help with brand and products.
I have never heard of PPG specialty products but will check it out.
Me and my ex-jobber that carrys Dupont are finished.
I have been reading that Duponts color matches are hit or miss and delam is an issue.
Im going to sit and talk with my jobber and see what happens.[quote=”Jayson M” post=24084]What other choices do you have in town for paint jobbers?Maybe it is time to move down the road,or do what I have done,call your jobber and tell him to come get his F@#king paint :rofl :rofl .
Here are a few ideas that can save you some cash.
1.Carborundum sand paper is made by norton(saint gobain abrasives) and it is always cheaper and identical to the higher priced norton,goes farther than 3m.
2.3m 233+ tape is nice but the carbo or norton premium or 3m yellow tape works just as good,3m white masking paper is cheap also.
3.Are you using sata rps cups for everything? If you are just try using it for your waterborne,and metal pots for sealer and clear.
4.You could start using a lower line of primers in your system as long as your jobber will warranty them eg omni mp 282.
5.I agree that $600 for 7.5 litres of clear is stupid,but on the flipside every cheap clear I have used has bit me in the ass.But one that I have used on some budget jobs is matrix Autoglas 40 LV,our cost on 7.5L kit is around $185,and be damned if it isn’t easy to spray and looks nice and glossy and stays that way.Can’t say that for upol,carsystem,rubberseal or any of the other cheap crap clears out there.[/quote]The two jobbers in my town carry PPg( which i am using )and dupont(which is not an option for me) :sick:
I’ll check into the sandpaper, sounds interesting because norton is what my jobber carrys anywhay.
I have myself ruined with the norton plastic cups for everything that i spray but it could be an option.
Im using the lower brand Shopline 2Kprimer already but cutting cost on Etch is not an option because corrosion is a problem in my area.
And the $600 clear is the one in my system that is for waterborn paint and i have peace of mind because it is fully warranted. And i like it alot.
How about buying online? anyone else doing it?
[quote=”Eric23″ post=24005]I mention a fender patch and it seems like everyone gets nervous. Not going to blame someone online if the paint comes out bad..Welled I actually bought a Haynes tech book. You use 320 grit.[/quote]
What type of paint are you using? 320 isnt gonna cut it (no pun intended) :p for base/clear. It will for enamal though, maybe thats what the book is telling you.
400 is the lowest i go for sealer, i dont think 320 actually seales the scratches.
If your welding in patch panels your in for alot of work to turn it out right. if your not perticular go for it, if you are i would suggest to replace the panel it might be a little more cost up front but you end up with a better job in the end. Some of the aftermarket companys actually make them fairly cheap.I have put in patch panels before but i will never do it again due to the amount of work involved to do them right.
Are you painting the whole truck? if so sand the whole thing down with 400 grit on a DA sander. if not just sand the areas your going to paint with 400, do the rest with 800 and blend off your paint and re clearcoat. Good luck your gonna need it :weights
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