Han Kim
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I’ve been swamped since the begining of this year. Haven’t crunched the numbers yet but it should
be a record quarter for me. Knock on metal i hope it keeps up. Last year was a complete disaster, however.
Most other shops around me are dead.Seriously, i was considering closing shop because 08′ was so bad. I pulled my few adds and number from
the phone book too; they never made a difference anyway.We’ll just call it the ding/bondo box!
Etch is a one trick pony! Epoxy is so much more versatile. And when working from home, fewer products
that can do more is the way to go. The SPI Euro clear is awesome stuff; with the different reduction ratios
and speed, it’s the most versatile clear i’ve tried (4:1:1, 4:1:1.5, 4:1:2, etc.). Add a splash of Polar and it’s
a turbo clear! With NO amber cast like most budget clears. Hard to beat. Hell, how do you beat this?Man, i can’t seem to go home today…
I probably have a few good tips since this is all i do (collision) while trying to find a happy middle ground.
And we both use SPI products! I’m at the shop so i’ll do a better write-up later…1. Euro Clear (and Polar for jambs) will be perfect. It’s a must have.
2. The new sealer is fast and ideal for most jobs. Have yet to try it but we both know it’s good.
* You can also reduce 2K to use as a sealer. 1 coat of adhesion promoter and reduced 2K over the bumbers.
3. Either Bulldog or the SPI “bulldog” will do wonders.So, with basically 4 SPI products (not including reducers) you can do most collision jobs very quickly
while not sacrificing quality. Though i love epoxy, it’s rarely used.I’ve been meaning to try this! and i will!
Guess it also depends on where you’re located. My shop is located in a not-so-great area.
I get bombarded with cheap idiots all day long sometimes. Trust me, this would get to you.
Now, i just point to Maaco across the street. Done!But, sometimes, there are the guys that do mean well. Rare…
Not a bad idea! But there will likely be some redundancies and, perhaps, methods/procedures that
aren’t proper or generally accepted; that could potentially make everyone look bad.You posted some video links from Expert Village that i thought were questionable. Actually, there’s
a lot bad information out there.What sets this forum apart from the others is, of course, the regular professionals that take the time
to post pics and videos. OK, it’s mostly ding and bondomerchant (lately). 🙂What sort of vision do you have for this forum? Aside from making a few bucks (more power to ya!).
I jack up the price a lot, tell ’em to bring the parts in so i can check them. They usually don’t return but
if they do, THEN i give him a reasonable price. Works for me.I put the paper up against the opening — sometimes taped to hold in place — then use my fingers to get
the outline and cut it slightly smaller. For large openings, you want to make some braces with the tape
like what BK did here so it’s somewhat stiffer/flatter. You can also roll up your cut paper and basically unroll
it onto the opening.Major items could be in stock. But try calling the dealer to see if parts are available. I really had a nightmare of time
getting things in. It was a front end hit with around 7g’s in parts… This is the only make i hate to deal with…That just sikkens me.
That brings back some nightmares. Had one in for nearly 3 months ($13g’s +) and many of the parts i needed
was on special order/back order. Over engineered crap! They’re beautiful looking cars, however.It does sound very interesting. Maybe, someday, they’ll get it right and urethane primers will be as useful as lacquer primer…
Very interesting. How much is it? How much do you add? What is the build like?
How long did you let the base flash before clearing?
And what were the temps?