David Clark
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Thanks Jayson! Im sure I will have alot more questions. We are using Auto base plus and the reducer. I will see if they can get us the lesonal reducers. Im not a big fan of the color scalla decks and they way you have to look up them up. Im sure in time I will get it figured out. Also the color build primer is on the slow side.
Thanks Ryan! I am using an LPH400 with a 1.4. Is there a medium hardner or just fast and slow?
I have been at the same dealership shop for the last 10yrs. Im the only origonal guy on staff. Over the years management and techs have come and gone. There are many days that I feel like Im the odd man out. Im the only person on staff that wasnt hired by our fixed ops director that also acts as a manager. I sometimes feel like Im not as valued by him since I wasnt hired by him. Its tough, I know how you feel.
I spray in a downdraft and paint from top to bottom and bottom to top. It just depends on what Im painting. I have never had any problems doing it that way.
Yep! thats what happens when you spray sherwin.:rofl I have started using a slower base coat stabilizer. It helps a little.
My exaust fan is the 1/2 HP, 18″ 3000CFM. Its not the biggest because I wanted more positve pressure than neg. Yes its not explosion proof, I wish I had the cash for one. Im just living on the edge I guess!:blush: My garage is 25 wide by 30 deep and I have a curtain down the middle and I paint in one side of it.
Alot of my dirt actually comes from my tack cloth:wak If my base goes on dry and has a roughness to it, when I tack over it tiny fibers get pulled off the rag on get snagged on the rough base. Its a real pain in the butt! Its real bad if I use an older cloth.
I am using an exaust fan from TSC. I cut a hole in the wall down low, built a box around it with a furnace filter in front of it. My intake is an old squirrel cage fan in the top of the garage with a flex line duct running over to my gable vent for fresh air. Its cold air so its not good for the winter.
Everyone in our shop is on flat rate. We have 2 bodymen and two painters. I am a painter and I do all the prep, prime, masking, spraying and buffing. The body guys tear down, repair, frame, glass, reassembly. They get more per hour than us painters. :chair
Another vote for Acme FC710 and 720!
I jumped on the Iwata band wagon about 2 years ago. They are good guns…I love my LPH400 with silver cap for clear. I have the purple cap and dont care much for it. I have use the orange cap quite a bit and it works great for sealer, solid base coat and clear. Metalics on the other hand are a bit harder to keep from moddleing. I personaly like how a good old Sata NR2000 sprays base. Its an all around good gun if you can find one. The Iwata is a good gun though its just not the best for met.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15385]Try and finish it out with some P3000 trizac paper. Also hit each spot twice instead of once.
Are you using foam or wool pads?[/quote]
Thats good advice! Try Ryans method. It seems to work good for me. I am using farecla Total.
At home it seems to be fine. At work its soooo slow! It takes a few seconds just to scroll down the page.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=14927][quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=14925]Yep! had that same problem. I switched to Farcela Total and I dont get that hazy look anymore one the car is washed. I was using 3M compound with a white foam pad before.[/quote]
I’m pretty sure he won’t have total in the UK. I think it’s a US only product. I like the Total also.[/quote]
Are tou using the Total foam pad also? Im just using a 3m white and black pad. It seems to work ok. Just wondering if the farecla pad is better.
I would put white ribbed tin up. the kind that goes on the outside of a metal building. As for doors, I would use double doors with the sweeps and a rubber seal on the sides and center. You should check out Tractor Supply for an exaust fan.