John
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Any of you work in or run a shop where the hours go to a “team” rather than each employee?
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
Another thing interesting about this primer is it’s film build (thickness) is greater then most 2k’s.[/quote]Did you measure the film build, or are you just judging this visually or by feel?
What’s the recommended film build?
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote]
sanded or unsanded? …. sounds like a waist of product , which suppliers like to see. :silly: :woohoo: B)[/quote]Not really. We like to see happy customers who don’t have a lot of re-do’s. Happy customers tend to stick around longer.
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]We just had someone start with us who has many my rep told me stories. The one I question the most is he suggested we should be applying a plastic primer over top of primed bumpers. I see no truth is that, I’ve been informed that it gives you worse adhesion. Opinions??[/quote]Adhesion promoter, then basecoat. No primer on primed plastic.
One reason people shy away from it is because they are computer shy in general.
I think if any of you do a cost analysis, you’ll find that sandpaper is a very insignificant cost to begin with, and any savings you may believe you’re getting are even less significant.
Jimmo, in your original question, you asked about possibly saving money on primers, clears, etc. A key factor there is if you are getting a warranty from your paint supplier, using any other products (including other products from that same supplier) voids that warranty.
However, even in that case, you may take in jobs where that isn’t a factor. Maybe it’s a customer pay job and they need the cost to be as low as possible. Even then, your paint and materials cost make up such a small percentage of the cost of the job, it isn’t going to change much.
With all that said, I sell a good amount of Refinisher Select RS3401 DTM primer and RS6030/6040 clear to shops and painters who don’t want to go with the more expensive primers and clears. Both are excellent products that work well and look great (there are custom cars around here with HOK base and RS 6040 clear) at a price that won’t strain your wallet.
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]sounds like a good idea.[/quote]I thought so too. Imagine if you could get the performance of a 40 or 50 gallon compressor out of a 25 gallon?
Imagine saving on energy costs by the compressor not needing to run as much?
It sounds awesome… if it works anywhere near as claimed (or at all)
[quote]I wonder if it can reuse my airblower air. :laugh: :laugh:[/quote]
Sure… you just have to mount a big collector in the ceiling that sucks it all in and sends it back to the compressor!:blink:
Jimmo… one of my “rules” is to buy and use whatever everyone is comparing themselves to. THat is obviously the “gold standard”. I learned this back when everyone was making “Soundblaster Compatible” sound cards. After fighting with several issues, I found it best to just buy and use an actual Soundblaster sound card.
In this case, the success of the 3M pps system has everyone scrambling to come out with their own version. In their pitch, they spend a good deal of time explaining how their system compares to the 3M system.
That tells me the 3M system is highly regarded, even by their competitors.
I haven’t seen the Gerson system in person yet. I have, however, seen and used the DeVilbiss version. It’s pretty nice. Works well. No complaints. I like that their box is the dispenser, so you get a new one with each batch of liners, rather than having an old, ratting, broken one hanging on the wall and covered in masking tape.
I have also seen a detailed analysis done by a body shop (one that has many locations), in which they tracked *all* of their related expenses for a 6 month period, then, the following year, same 6 month period, used the 3M PPS system. I saw spreedsheats with actual numbers, and at the end of the day, the cost was not a factor. (i.e., the cost of the liners was covered by not buying as much thinner, as many rags, paying for more waste removal, etc.) – plus the time saving and efficiency was improved.
No. I will not give you exact details or share the name of the shops, because I was asked not to. Sorry. 😉
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]I’ve got an S&W jobber I use, thanks for the info. I’ll give him a shout tomorrow. How certain do you feel on the color? I don’t know if they’ll have any chips so I may have to order it mixed. I don’t really mind spending a bit of $$$ bringing it in to compare, but don’t really want to waste $$$ if your not really sure. thanks again.[/quote]Not certain at all Jimmo… I was just looking in the system to see what came up. I don’t know if your jobber will do this, but what I would do in a case like this is either provide the customer a 2 ounce sample to check the color, or do a sprayout card for him.
We really don’t get any info from the bike companies, and it’s generally not cost effective to spend much money on researching and developing bike formulas due to low volume – that’s why trying to find matching bike paint can be such a PITA some times.
I have some Kawi parts I’m going to send to our color lab pretty soon. Then we’ll have 7 Kawi formulas!
Norton may have something similar, but Farecla compounds are the bomb diggity. I haven’t run into anyone who’s tried them who does anything but rave about them. Their G3 is an excellent “extra cut” compound.
Check SW Formula number 76828 for the green (which is Kawi paint code 617)
For the purple, try SW formula number 82684 (which only comes up as an AWX (waterborne) formula)
I checked the store locator – I think one of these should be near you
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/company/store_mappage.cfm?requesttimeout=45Good stuff. You can also use it like a hand glaze – apply it with a damp microfiber cloth, let it dry a bit, hand buff it off with a clean microfiber cloth.
From what I understand, big hits are usually the least profitable, so, I would think, from a shop perspective, you’d prefer to avoid doing clips. True?
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
I cleaned the primer off a couple of bumpers as recommended , said this is ridiculous and have not done it since and haven’t seen any problems just sanding and painting. Painted bumper covers is the stupidest thing I think I’ve ever seen. It’s a bumper “B U M P E R” for bumping in to things so why not make it out of something that can handle bumping into things. Airhead car designers:woohoo: what’s next? glass/crystal bumpers. B)[/quote]More accurately, you’ve taken primer off bumper *covers*. Bumpers are not, as I’m sure you know, for “bumping into things”.
The most common use I see of pillar foam is in the Chrysler minivans.